Archive for Food & Drinks

Around the world in many Cups

People are clearly coffee people or tea people. Just like you find Dog people or Cat people. Just last week, a good friend of mine made a remark about how I had changed in 2 years. Apparently, when he met me 2 years ago, I would drink nothing but black coffee. Agree. About a year ago, I was overworked and I would drink nothing but Red Bull. Partly agree. Recently, he mentioned that my preference has changed to tea. Disagree. All this hype about Coffee, Tea and Red Bull, I decided to think about my life, my travels and really figure out who I am. So, here are plenty of coffee moments, some tea moments and many life lessons.

Nothing inspires me to write more than coffee – Coffee has been the savior. When I blog. When I write in my travel diary. More than anything, when I had to write innumerable mails at work. When I had to especially frame politically correct emails. When I had to apply for a job. When I had to write my resignation. You get the drift. (Infact, right now, that’s what I’m drinking)

Starbucks should not even be your last resort – If you are anywhere near North America, they sell you brown liquid in the name of Starbucks Coffee. I detest Starbucks. I avoid it all costs. Whoever came up with Tall, Grande and whatever? I know Americans like everything ‘supersize’ but it is ridiculous making anyone drink that amount of bad coffee. (I know my sister is probably going to kill me for this, but to save humanity from bad coffee, I had to write this). If they worry so much about the coffee farmers and so on and so forth (as it reads in their promotional material in store), they would stop spending so much money on real estate and give it back to society.

The best coffee can be brewed with socks – Honest to God. In Brazil, they have this coffee maker called a Cuador, which is nothing but a sock like cloth attached to a metal ring and handle. You put the coffee powder in this and Voila, you have a hot cup of awesome coffee. This makes a fabulous travel companion. All you need to do is buy the local coffee from a supermarket and boil water and you can make your own coffee, about 10 times cheaper than drinking coffee outside. If you do not get a cuador, fresh clean ankle socks works.

Meet the people behind the scenes and hear the coffee stories – Whether it is in the Guatemalan coffee farms or the Bali coffee estates, you’ll find coffee farmers to be warm and loving and ready to make the 100th cup of the day just to share with you. I remember sitting and chatting with this lady who was roasting the ‘Luwak’ beans in Bali and telling me the history of coffee. Known as Kopi Luwak, it is among the most expensive coffee in the world. The process of making this coffee will disgust you – they make the little Asian Palm Civet’s eat the berries and excrete the same. Then, the beans having gone through the intestines and out, are separated, cleaned and roasted and so on and so forth, till the most amazing coffee is made.

Sometimes, the only thing that can get you through bad coffee is good company – I love black coffee. Hanging around a bus station in Brazil with a friend, I was deeply disappointed to find only coffee chains with milky coffee and not the usual Cafezinho (small black coffee). Remember cribbing a lot. Then, the adaptable calm friend of mine picked up the coffee and literally thrust it on my face. One coffee slap was good to get me slurping out of the cup. And surprisingly, I enjoyed it as she cracked jokes about bus stations, travel, losing weight and all that. So, it is true. Bad Coffee + Good Company = Great memories.

The one thing on top of my sightseeing list in every city is the oldest café – Whether it is Café Sperl in Vienna or Café Tortoni in Buenos Aires, it was top priority for me to visit these cafes. All the museums and palaces of the world came next. Old world charm, black and white photographs, the history adds to the nostalgia.  Imagine sitting in the room where the King of Spain sipped coffee. I’ve landed up spending a bomb across such cafes but you never think money when you think coffee. These are far stronger memories than seeing a hundred paintings in a museum and not remembering one.

When in trouble, find an Illy - For those who take their black coffee seriously, visiting a new country and not finding the perfect blend can be worrisome. I’ve had terrible terrible coffee in Malaysia, North India and Egypt. A wise woman I met in Mexico told me that the easiest way to find good coffee in a country is to find the Italian Embassy or Italian Cultural Centre and hope they have a cafeteria. Illy rocks. (Now, I can’t help but remember the day my Italian neighbour in Chennai taught me how to make an Italian espresso – Read more here)

Never make the mistake of ordering coffee in Tea land – Was in Egypt last year and craving for coffee one day. Made the terrible mistake of ordering a coffee in the old markets of Cairo. With tons of Elachi and a terrible fragrance, one sip made me cry out Allah. I had the impression it would be close to Turkish coffee or Arabic coffee, dark and strong. Had no idea it came with spices. Prompty, I switched to Tea. It is not about the drink at all. It is about lounging around in a Sheesha place with a glass of tea for hours.

When you in the wilderness, coffee or tea, have it hot – After a long day bushwhacking or trekking or hiking or whatever you do in the wild, the only thing I yearn for is a hot cup of whatever. (This is obviously second to a cold beer, but I generally don’t carry a mini fridge when I go hiking). So, for a change, its not about coffee or not about tea but about hot water. As the kettle gently sways over the camp fire, you have this warm feeling within you that doesn’t go away. (Tried and tested in many places around the world – Special moment was in Swansea in Wales and Smoky Mountains in the USA).

While coffee goes with backpacking, tea goes with luxury – Unless you are backpacking in the Middle East or roughing it out in a guesthouse in Varanasi, I would suggest the best companion to backpacking is coffee. Anyway, coming back to tea, why tea and luxury? Recently, I was invited to a Champagne Afternoon Tea at the Dorchester hotel in London. No, I’m not kidding. With scones and jam, champagne and perfect little sandwiches, they served a whole bunch of us tea in fine china. I was so worried I was going to knock down something or break something. It was like being in the Titanic, with all the cutlery. Rated as one of the best Tea experiences in all of Britain, this was something way out of my league. (Ok.. someone else was paying.. Haha) Anyway, I’m not bad at role playing. I promptly held the cup like most of them do, with the little pinkie finger sticking out, pursed my lips and slurped away. And, I felt like the perfect lady when the waiter actually asked me, ‘Would you like some more teaaaaa?’. And, that is the London experience I worry about.

Saving the best for last, nothing beats South Indian Filter coffee – Yes, I’m that South Indian girl who grew up drinking filter coffee from a tumbler. So, now you know why the obsession to find coffee everywhere I go. This was just a few moments before my wedding (early in the morning), drinking a strong cup of filter coffee, freshly brewed at home. (My aunt was hyperventilating that I would spill the coffee on my Sari, but I managed). I absolutely needed to clear my head before taking that big step towards marriage. Like I said, nothing beats South Indian Filter coffee.

So, brought up in coffee land (South India) and obsessed with coffee land (Brazil), moving to tea land (Britain) is a bit of a worry. Especially after I read this quote. “Coffee in England always tastes like a chemistry experiment.” – Agatha Christie

And, such is life. No fear. What lays ahead is a path of discovery. I cannot wait to begin my coffee crawl of London and add to these stories here.

Guatever I fondly remember

It’s about 2 weeks since we returned from the lovely holiday in Guatemala and Mexico and I am pleased that the number of reminders I have received from my friends to update my blog has been more than SMS New Year wishes. That is some record. So, here I am trying to remember guatever I can. Actually, with Guatemala, I have to admit that is not very difficult.

From the terribly cold streets of New York, we landed in Guatemala City on the 22nd of November and the weather was hardly the point of discussion. Just the fact that we could remove our thermals made everything seem like sunshine to me.  Immigration has never been easier, considering this was the first country we were stepping into, which did not require Indian’s to carry a visa. Infact, when we tried to talk to the immigration officer about this, he assumed we were Diplomats. (Come on… I’m wearing my dirty red sweatshirt and Roy is carrying a backpack that looks like it has been beaten to death and still they think we are Diplomats in Guatemala. I love it already).

Whizzing through immigration, we landed up in the backseat of our first Collectivo ride. Collectivos are white mini vans (kind of the size of those  Tata ambulance vans) that ply you from city to city, intra city et all. You will find them all over Guatemala and Mexico. We heard that Guatemala city has nothing much to offer the traveler, unless you want to see armed guard outside any building. We drove straight to Antigua.

Antigua is a travelers delight. Take some of the oldest looking colonial ruins, put them together amidst 3 volcanoes and clear blue skies, the European charm of Cobble stone streets, the indigenous touch with the people who sell colourful woven garments, hot local food served straight from earthenware in quaint restaurants and the strongest damn coffee you will get, that is Antigua for you.

Walking around the little town and riding the Chicken buses in and around Antigua, within the first 2 days of my holiday, I felt as though I had experienced what most travelers would get to see in a few weeks.  Currently faced with this extremely difficult task of cherry picking my favourite pictures of Antigua, I’m reliving those 3 days. I hope this photographic journey below takes you on a virtual trip.

(Tip: The first thing to do is to pick up an Antigua city map from any hotel reception or travel agent. It’s a simple grid structure and you criss cross till you have covered everything).

Unesco World Heritage Antigua with the natural setting of Volcano Agua in the background.

The oldest Cathedral in Antigua. The construction of this cathedral began in 1545 and it was demolished around 1668. They rebuilt it around 1680 and it was demolished again by an earthquake in 1773. Walk through the ruins and you really feel transported back in time.

Looking at the blue skies through the arches is mesmerising.

Apart from ruins, you have beautiful churches like the one below – Iglesia la merced.

Just across this church is Antigua’s very own Dhobi Ghat. This little public pond is where a lot of people do the laundry.

The Arch of Santa Catalina is one of the most famous and certainly one of the most photographed colonial monuments in Antigua. This used to be the entrance to the Santa Catalina monastery which was destroyed in the Earthquake as well.

If you are not visiting the ruins or walking through historic arches, what every little street offers you is colourful picture perfect houses or quaint flower pots. A photographer’s delight.

All the walking makes you hungry – stop by a place that serves you Comidas Tipicas – local food. We went to this place called La Cuevitas de la Urquizu, recommended by the receptionist at the hotel we were staying at. You get to pick 1 main gravy and 2 salads and they give you rice and tortillas to go with it. Let me not forget the pickles. We ordered a chicken and a pork dish just for the variety and left the restaurant 2 hours later, a few pounds heavier.

Do not miss a visit to the bus station in Antigua just to check out the queue of colourful buses. Old American school buses painted and polished, you do not want to miss a ride. Just buy a ticket to the nearest Pueblo and hop on.  We bought tickets to Ciudad Del Viejo. The seats on the side can only take 2 people each but 3 people squeeze in with their butts literally sticking out in the aisle area. You have to squeeze in and find a spot amidst all the healthy Guatemalans :) There is free entertainment depending on the driver you get. One way, we had a driver who was into Reggaeton and the other guy was into sad love songs. Either way, this is an experience to remember.

Do not forget to visit the Artisan’s market, not too far from the bus station. You may find the main Artisan market a little touristy. But, there are many other less popular markets in and around the city. Try on a Huipil – that’s a traditional Guatemalan dress. Just take in the colours. If you want to buy something, I would recommend the beautiful cloth belt called as Faja’s and the Cafe de Guatemala gunny bag.

Not being far away from the coffee belt of Guatemala, I would recommend a visit to one of the coffee farms nearby. Azotea is a lovely coffee farm, that houses a couple of museums on coffee production, ancient Guatemalan instruments and textiles. A 3 hour trip (free pickup and drop from the Parque Central) is well worth it. I was delighted to see that I have been to 6 out of the top 17 coffee producing destinations in the world. (That makes is very easy to plan the next coupe of trips).

And.. it is my dream to own every type of coffee device. Currently, I have a poor collection – Italian espresso maker, French press, American coffee maker (the worst), Brazilian cuador and a South Indian filter.  It’s time to invest.

And, if you fancy just a strong cup of Guatemalan coffee in town, I would recommend this little coffee shop (Y Tu Pina tambien) which serves what is called “Hard on coffee”. The good karma tip box on the counter was one of the cutest things I have seen, a pleasant break from the tip crazy time at New York.

And.. finally, for some interesting night life, I would only recommend heading to the local Pena – Pena del sol latina. Buy yourself a Gallo beer and a plate of Nachos with Guacamole. If you are lucky, you’ll catch the local Guatemalan band. If not, you’ll witness some Cuban musicians. Either way, there is nothing better than sinking into a Latin America with good music and good beer.

On this good food note, I hope to leave you with a taste of Guatemala. The main course is yet to come. Keep checking here for more.

My foodie friends from Romania

I’ve been a firm believer of this principle – If you can’t travel, you welcome travelers into your home. That is almost like traveling. That’s why I have been an addict of Couchsurfing. Over the past 5 years, I’ve met amazing people in India and overseas, who have changed the way I approach life. Isn’t it amazing that the virtual world can bring people of similar interests together?

Not very long ago, Costin and Cristina, a lovely Romanian couple wrote to me and asked me if I would like to write for their food blog – RestauranteRomania. With their love for world food, they have been compiling culinary experiences from around the world. Having interacted with them online for sometime, I realised one thing – Foodies are same everywhere in the world. They have a passion to explore, discover and taste the world like no other (no pun intended on taste). So, here is a little interview with my 2 foodie friends from Romania. I eagerly await the day I can take them on a food trip around India.

Q: Give us a little background on why you run a food blog?

Costin: I was 13 years and 11 months old when I first entered a restaurant; then I had a grilled pork steak with chips and a pint of beer. I am 43 years old now. In the mean time (a foodie’s “career” that has lasted 30 years) I have had several wagons of beer and wine, uncountable flocks of pigs, cows, sheep and birds, loads of shoals, alongside with the same quantities of fresh vegetables, cooked or pickled ones, in different restaurants. So I am very much into what happens in a restaurant – good or bad. So, as I only like doing what I know best, I started developing a blog about what happens in the restaurants in my home country, Romania, as well as in restaurants all over the world.

And because, for greater objectivity, I needed a second opinion which I could fully trust, I have chosen to do this blog together with the only person I completely trust without any restraints – my wife Cristina.

Q: What are your favourite travel places and food you have tried there?

I like Romanian food the most and this is why I will present a complete menu consisting of dishes I have had at different restaurants as follows:

a) bean soup with smoked ham in bread crust, with fresh onion and chilies on the side together with a shot of tuica (pronounced “tzouika”, it is Romanian traditional brandy made of plums);

b) grilled trout;

c) veal cooked in cast-iron kettle, with garlic sauce and pickles on the side, or lamb chops with red dry wine;

d) papanasi (pronounced “papanashi”), fried fresh cheese balls, with blackberry jam and fresh cream, or cheese pie with raisins, vanilla and fresh cream.

e) black coffee or tea (no sugar).

Q: Why do you think trying local food when traveling is really important?

Costin: Local food, just like the fish, meat or vegetable markets, tells everything about the culture and history of those places, about the soul of the people and all it has been through – they are genuine things that can never be faked.

Q: What is the one food everyone must try in their life?

Costin: Pizza of all kinds and shapes with loads of hot sauce.

Q: Tell me your favourite food joke.

Costin: At school, Bula’s teacher asks the class to make a phrase with the expression “mother is only one” as homework. The next day the teacher asks Bula’s classmates about the phrases they made with “mother is only one”.
“John, what have you written?”
“Well, when I was ill my mother always stayed with me, mother is only one.”
“Good for you!”
“What about you, George, what have you written?”
“When I didn’t know how to solve a math exercise my mother helped me, mother is only one.”
“Excellent!”
Finally, it was Bula’s turn.
“And you, Bula, what have you written?”
“Well, yesterday when I arrived home, I was very hungry so I asked my mother about something to eat and she told me there were two cutlets in the fridge, I opened the fridge and shouted: MOTHER, (THERE) IS ONLY ONE!!!”

I love my Indian food

Who in the world has not tried Indian food? With Indian restaurants that have sprung up in every street corner, ranging from the big bad cities like London and New York to small quaint towns like Linz and Valparaiso, finding Indian food is hardly the issue. Ask any Indian food fan what he likes and the chances that you will hear about “Naan” and “Chicken Tikka” is extremely high. What they don’t know is that they have tried out one tiny portion of the Indian cuisine. The Indian restaurants around the world mostly serve North Indian food and in most cases, are run by Bangladeshis and Pakistanis. Indeed, they serve a mean platter. I have personally eaten in the Gandhi Palace’s and Taj Mahal restaurant’s of the world. I have loved gorging rich Butter Naan and not very spicy Chicken Tikka Masala. The reason I write this post is to tell you guys about the rich variety of Indian food that is available in India, other than the internationally popular North Indian food.

Here are my top 5 restaurants from the East, West and South of India.

East Indian Food – Not just fish in Kolkata

With Satyajit Ray paintings on the wall and a handwritten whiteboard menu, Bhojohori Manna serve you authentic Bengali cuisine in an old world charm, transporting you to a Bengali grandmother’s kitchen in no time. Variety that includes a lot more than the infamous fish, portions perfect for a couple, the hospitality as welcoming as any Indian home, affordable an understatement to describe their pricing, Bhojohori Manna is a rare treat in today’s world. Combined with the Victoria Memorial and the Indian museum for the history buffs, Birla Mandir and Kalighat Temple for the religious, Gariahat Market and New Market for the shopoholics, Kolkata has something more to offer than simply great food.

Sumptuous meal at Bhojohori Manna
Luchi and Kosha Mangsho (Puris and mutton curry)
Bhetki Paturi (Steamed bhetki fish in a banana leaf)
Ilish Maach (Hilsa fish prepared in mustard sauce) with rice
Chingri Malai Curry (Prawn curry) with rice
Luchi with Alu Posto (Puris and fried potatoes with poppy seeds)
Begun Bhaja (Fried eggplant)
Dhokar Dalna (Chickpea cake curry) with rice
Seal with the mouth watering Mishti Doi

The pictures below are certain to make your mouth water :)



North West Indian Food – Royal Rajasthani Thali in Jaipur

The Indian version of a set meal, popularly referred to as a Thali, is lunch to most rushed working executives. The Rajasthani Thali however has been made especially for the ghee-loving individual who has two hours to lunch. Popular with the locals as well as tourists, LMB, short for Lakshmi Mishtan Bhandar, is one of the oldest restaurants in Johari Bazaar, Jaipur. With the platter that is laid out in front of you, you may just consider yourself Rajasthan Royalty for the hour. Walking distance from Hawa Mahal, the Royal Palace and markets in Jaipur, LMB is a stopover that is a must for a food lover.

Special Lunch Thali at Lakshmi Mishtan Bhandar (LMB)
Highlights are Papad Mangori Soup, Churma and Bati, Bela Rajasthani and Kadi Chhokanwali.

West Indian Food – Malvani Cuisine in Mumbai

It is impossible to think of one cuisine to associate Mumbai with. With options ranging from Cheese Pav Bhaji to Mexican Chimichanga, Bombay Sandwich to Spanish Paella, Mumbai really has it all. If there is one well kept secret, it’s the Malvani cuisine, which originates from the Konkan region of Maharashtra, tucked away in the form of little no-frill joints around Mumbai. Famous for the fiery seafood curries, crispy bombay duck and soothing Sol Kadhi (a pink coloured drink made from Kokam fruit and Coconut milk), a lunch at any of the Malvani joints is much sought after by the locals. The most popular ones are Saayba and Highway Gomantak in Bandra and Jai Hind Lunch Home in Lower Parel. Be prepared for a 20-minute wait outside any of these restaurants, after all, what’s in store is well worth the wait.

Meal for two at Saayba, one of the most popular Malvani joints
Chicken Sagoti Masala with Bhakri (Rice Roti)
Pomfret Masala / Teesra Masala with Rice
Surmai Fry / Bombil Fry / Prawns Fry on the side
Sol Kadhi
Malpua for the sweet tooth

South Indian Food – Idlis so soft, they will melt in your mouth – Chennai

Subrabatham, filter coffee and soft Idlis – this is how a typical morning starts in a Chennai household. Catch any South Indian and they will describe that the best Idlis are those that are as soft as petals of a flower. Murugan Idli Shop is among the most popular joints to savour such Idlis in Chennai today. Established in Madurai in the 80’s and with over 5 branches in Chennai, Murugan Idli has satiated many a visitor. Start the day with Murugan Idli and you will surely find yourself with a burst of energy, enough to face what Chennai has in store. T. Nagar saree shopping or a drive to the shore temples in Mahabalipuram, the jewelry markets in Mylapore or a walk down Marina Beach, Chennai won’t disappoint you.

Hearty breakfast at Murugan Idli
Idlis served with 4 types of chutney and sambar
Top up with Vada, Ghee Masala Dosa, Uttappam or Venpongal
Seal with a hot cup of filter coffee

I was so busy eating I didn’t take pictures. So, picture credit below to Arun Shanbhag.

South Indian Food – Suprise Thali at Mango Tree, Hampi

Irrespective of whether you are temple hopping, bouldering, taking boat rides or just hanging out with Lakshmi, the temple elephant, Hampi has so much to offer, it tires you. Actually, it makes you darn hungry. Having just spent 2 days there, I sincerely remember the South Indian Thali at Mango Tree Restaurant. With the view of the Tunghabadra river and a lovely floor seating, this place immediately makes you relax. Definitely order the Nutella Banana pancakes as dessert.

The lunch you don’t want to miss in Hampi
South Indian Thali (or)
Chapati’s with Curry (Multiple options available)
Nutella Banana Pancake for dessert
Lemon Nana juice (a mint lemon special here)

Hungry kya?

Food ticket to Brazil

Woke up this morning and did some cupboard cleaning. Opened one of my travel diaries and it landed on a page, where I had stapled an empty carton of 3 Corazon coffee from Brazil – the strongest coffee I had tried in the Minas region of Brazil. Memories of Brazil flooded my mind… or should I say taste buds. The pangs started in the morning and has lasted all day. Today is definitely one of those days I wish I could indulge in some Comida Ultima (Ultimate Food in Portuguese).

Tough luck! Except for Agua de Coco (Coconut Water), Bandra (though a lovely ex-Portuguese colony) has no little nook serving anything close to Brazilian food. Anyway, here I am, revisiting all the good ole pictures of my favourite food from Brazil and wishing Cindrella’s Fairy God Mother would convert a pumpkin into a Brazilian buffet in my house.

What I want in the morning-Cafezinho. Not just any coffee. I want Brazilian coffee. And Cafezinho means little coffee, like Ronaldinho means little Ronaldo. Get the drift.

A perfect breakfast would be – Pao de queijo (Bread with cheese) and Coxinha (almost like an Indian Samosa) stuffed with chicken.  Top it off with a Bolo Chocolat (Chocolate cake) and it would be incredible.

For a super rich lunch, nothing beats a traditional Brazilian meal. Check out the spread that we had at Cafe Edgar, in Rio de Janeiro. Our friends Ronaldo and Renata introduced us to the thoroughfare – Arroz (Rice), Feijoada (Beans cooked with lots of meat), Farofa (That’s Mandoica fruit powdered and panfried) and the green vegetable which almost tastes like Spring Onion meets Seaweed. If you don’t want Feijoada (with meat), you can ask for Feijao (Just beans). Then, you will be served something very close to Rajma Chawal (Indian rice and beans).

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