Archive for Hostels & Hotels

Flashback-packing !

It was exactly 5 years ago that I left on my first backpacking trip out of India. August 2005. My first Europe trip as well. I guess its been no looking back ever since that trip. So, this is a blast from the past – the post I wrote before my first trip.

fatter me larger backpack

I had been dreaming for eight years and saving for two years to go for a Formula 1 Grand Prix and that’s how it all started…


The Italian Grand Prix was in September… Scarlet Ferraris … Scarlet flags… thousands of fans dressed in scarlet… I sure wanted a taste of it… By March, I had accomplished the most difficult task… convincing my husband that our entire saving needs to go towards financing his wife’s dream to see Schumacher in flesh and blood. The decision that we were going to make that trip… Those words ‘Yes honey, I think we can manage with a zero balance in our bank accounts for sometime’… those were the most encouraging words for me. I just had those words, a free Internet connection at office and my will to plan the entire trip…


‘Entire Trip’ – you must be wondering how Italian Grand Prix turned into entire trip… Well, who goes all the way to Italy and just visits little Monza without seeing all the beautiful cities and countries in and around Italy… I bought a nice notebook and wrote my name very stylishly… and gave it a title ‘Mission Monza’. 6 months to go. That’s sufficient time to plan… So I thought… After all, I was an amateur traveler… My earlier experiences were limited to official trips within the country invariably planned by my company, school excursions geographically limited to South India planned by the teachers, family trips planned and funded by parents or impromptu day trips with friends in and around places where I have lived.


In any case, I started very optimistic like most people do, wanting to see all of Europe in 20 days and with a budget in mind that could probably just take me to the airport and back. My first itinerary looked like the index of an atlas. It had all the names of all the cities that I knew existed, within each of those European countries that I could spell correctly. If I had gone with that itinerary, sure shot I would have spent more nights and days in buses and trains and probably managed to catch the E of Eiffel Tower and L of Leaning Tower of Pisa.


Where do I start? Where… I was confused like any other traveler wanting to see the world. I decided to start by buying the traveler’s bible – Lonely Planet’s Europe on a Shoestring. I always wondered why it was Europe on a Shoestring and not Europe on a Sock with a hole in it. That’s probably how much I could afford.Now that I had committed close to 1000 Rs on a guidebook, there is no backing out… Right! Nope… my husband was having second thoughts about the cost of the trip, considering the excel sheet cost estimates that I was mailing him everyday after reading a few pages of the guidebook. I had to do something before he changed his mind. I decided to commit on the most expensive thing, which is buying our air tickets. Once we buy our air tickets, there is definitely no backing out… (Evil me waving those expensive air tickets in front of my husbands face with an innocent pout which stands for ‘Guess what I bought for us honey’ look… I am sure that would work!)


Air Tickets… Air tickets… I decided to go to The Wanderers… they are travel agents if you are wondering whether they were a band or something… I felt like I was sitting for an interview to do a Ph.D. in Travel & Tourism… they asked me intelligent questions like where I wanted to go, what I wanted to see, how many days, what was my budget, blah blah… And my preparation was weaker than my preparation for a microeconomics examination… I learnt 2 lessons that day… Lesson 1 – A cheap holiday is not easy… the more it costs you in terms or time and preparation, the lesser it will cost you in terms of money… Lesson 2 – A traveler has to learn to sacrifice… The list I had drawn out would ideally take someone a year to cover… and I just had to get more realistic… The objective is not to tick off 30 places like a To Do List… The fun is in experiencing each place like you are tasting a new flavour of ice cream for the first time… relishing every moment and making it last long… I rushed out promising to return after doing my homework.


Rome, Venice, Florence, Pisa, Milan, Paris, Bordeaux, Nice, Monaco, Cannes, Corsica, Barcelona, Madrid, Ibiza, Amsterdam, Brussels, Prague, Vienna, Salzburg, Interlaken, Zurich, Montreux, Lucerne… I started with a list 3 times longer… Pages of scribbling, pouring over the Internet, I landed up with a realistic list… 3 countries in 3 weeks… France, Italy, Switzerland… here I come!


How did I shortlist these three… Italy… well the race was happening there… that was obvious… The other two were the difficult choices to make… I could have done Sweden and Turkey… or Poland and Belgium… wait a minute… I did not need ‘Europe for Dummies’ to figure out that France and Switzerland were neighbouring Italy and would hence be logical options… Thank the map vendor outside Andheri Shopper’s Stop who sold us a world map about a year ago… We decided on these two countries instantly… all the stuff I had downloaded on other countries were neatly transferred to this folder called ‘Ruled Out’.


The next two months went in a flurry, a completely crazy time pouring over hundreds of hostel reviews, Eurail timetables, sightseeing websites and I felt like I had already seen most of the places I intended to travel to. I could tell you how long it would take to travel between each of the cities I planned to go to by train, air or bus, with daily departures and fare details. I could tell how much it would cost to stay in a 4 bed dorm, 6 bed dorm, mixed dorm, double room, twin room, single room in atleast 10 hostels in each of the cities. I could tell you where you could get beer for a Euro… After this intense research, I had excel sheets titled Itinerary Version 1.0, Version 1.1 and so on… linked to Stay Options sheet, Sightseeing sheet and finally a formula filled cost sheet which would calculate the cost automatically. I tried thousands of permutations and combinations till I saw the magical figure, which was my budget, on the cost sheet. I was home.


The best part of this search was short-listing a hostel in each city. With peculiar names like 3 Ducks Hostel, Flying Pig Hostel and Fawlty Towers
Hostel, I guess we had to rely on reviews and a large amount of gut feel, before we chose any hostel… there were equal amount of good reviews and bad reviews for each of those places… So, I figured the best approach was to actually book the cheapest place and take a chance… If two places tie for the cheapest option, then book one with perks like free breakfast, proximity to railway station, non-shared bathrooms, sheets for free, free maps, free internet connection, no curfew… the list is endless.



With everything figured out pretty much, the only thing left was to get a Visa to visit those countries. I was enraged to find out that British citizens and American citizens do not require a Visa to enter Schengen countries. I started my Visa application process in a protestor mode… ‘How can you discriminate against India’ mode… that was just my ‘Rebel without a clue’ side waking up for a few days… After a couple of days, I was feeling practical and started collecting all the documentation required… the docket I made contained everything from my blood group to my tax returns to my marriage certificate to my ration card… I had no clue what the guy at the French Embassy would do with all these details… as long as he let me and my husband enter his country as tourists… The fat docket and a crisp covering letter on my company letterhead clearly stating that I had a secure job in India, which paid well, was the assurance that I did not intend to run away to France to sell postcards outside Eiffel Tower. Oh God… how much I hated to lie…


Anyway… to cut a long story short… we got our Visa… confirmed our bookings… planned a little more… and it was now frightfully close to August and we still did not have backpacks. Carrying suitcases and walking all around was out of question. I searched on the net, on roadside luggage stores in town and suburbs and just couldn’t find a nice looking comfortable backpack. The search for the Holy Grail would have been easier. After umpteen enquiries, I managed to find a tiny store in Matunga, selling professional backpacks for long trips. Who would think the place most known for Idlis and Dosas in Bombay would be the place where I would find the ideal backpack. Mumbai Masala proves itself, yet again…


All our bags are packed, we are ready to go… Come August 20th and we set out of our homes with our backpacks and every vegetable Vendor in Pali market was wondering why we were carrying a bag the size of a sack of potatoes and grinning like idiots at 6 am in the morning… Little did they know what was in store for us… Little did we know…


Like I have always said in all my stories… the journey is the reward… the three weeks come and go like a super fast train… but it’s the planning which makes me feel like I went on a six month trip and not three weeks…


What happened in those three weeks… Well, this pre travelogue is not meant for that… Watch out for the travelogue… Coming soon to your mailbox!

Hostel Fundas

When you are traveling, one of the most important decisions you need to make is about where you plan to stay. Most of the time, I prefer to stay with locals. Thanks to Couchsurfing, I have been able to stay with wonderful people and experience the city the way locals do. However, when you are traveling for a really long time, you feel like a little bit of luxury once in a while… some independence… shut your self away from the world ocassionally… those are the times you check into a hostel or a pousada and decide to give Couchsurfing a break. Also, when you are traveling in a large group (typically 3 or more people), finding a hostel is better than looking for a couch… most people may not be willing to host more than 2 people at a time…

So, the first month of my trip, I managed to stay with friends and family in the US and couchsurfers in Sao Paulo and Rio. The past couple of weeks, Ive been staying in hostels as Roy and Picklu have joined me… I book my hostels through www.hostelworld.com. The basics I looked for – private rooms with shared bathroom, breakfast included, free wi-fi and security. After a few stays, I realised it makes sense to include 24 hour reception, laundry facility and free linen to that list. There are always tall claims… For eg: hostels mention free internet.. however, they just have one computer and 30 people sharing it. However, free wi-fi has been great. With my small travel laptop, Ive been able to connect from just about anywhere.

You can be as choosy as you want.. but, that comes with a price.

Anyway, after a couple of stays, I decided that it would be a great opportunity to actually review the places we stay and post it here for the benefit of people who decide to backpack in South America in the future. This post will keep getting updates as and when I stay in a hostel.

So, here goes -

Vila Carioca – Rio De Janeiro, Brazil

Home away from home is the best way to describe Vila Carioca. Right from the minute you enter this hostel, the staff make you feel absolutely comfortable. The cozy rooms named after the beaches in Rio, colourful living room and sunny kitchen makes it an extremely cheerful atmosphere. With the hostel run by locals, they really give you a taste of Rio at this quaint place. The owners are Capoeristas (Capoeira is a Brazilian martial art form) and musicians and hence, one can get to experience the local culture even without stepping out.

The hostel has an option of private rooms for those who want to spend and dorm rooms for the budget traveler. Breakfast of bread, cheese, fruits and coffe is included in the package. The common room offers internet access at 3 Reals per hour. The hostel also has an entertainment area where you can choose to watch movies from the DVD collection or play some music, as they have a wide collection of musical instruments.

Located extremely close to the Botafogo metro and just 5 minutes by walk from the Botafogo beach, this hostel is perfect if you want to be in the midst of all the action. In less than 30 minutes, you can reach the beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana, tourist attractions of Sugar Loaf, Christ the Redeemer (Corcovado train station), the Botanical Garden, the Centro and Bohemian neighbourhood of Santa Teresa. There are multiple guidebooks and brochures that you can pick up at the hostel for the same.

Other positive aspects include the cleanliness of the hostel and the security. Since the hostel is located in a private road, it has a 24 hour security guard, making it completely safe. Not far away from the hostel, you can also find large shopping malls like Botafogo Praia Shopping, bank ATMs, laundry service, bars, cafes and restaurants.

Inspite of all the positives, there are two things to look out for. First and foremost, double check your reservation before arriving at the hostel. Even if you have made an internet booking, it may be advisable to call and confirm your reservation. With multiple staff at the hostel, there are times that internet reservations get missed. Secondly, the hostel is not equipped with multiple showers and hence, you may have to wait a bit for the shower in the morning. Also, the showers do not give hot water all day.

If you dont mind a cold shower, this is the place to stay in Rio. Apart from a local Rio experience, you can definitely expect to meet interesting travelers as this hostel does attract the culture vultures from different parts of the world.



O Sorisso Do Lagarto Hostel – Ouro Preto, Brazil

O Sorisso do Lagarto Hostel is a spacious hostel managed by a really friendly owner, Washington. Located just 10 minutes by walk from the main square Praca Tiradentes, the hostel is very easily accessible. If you arrive in Ouro Preto by bus, it takes just 15 minutes to reach the hostel by a local bus. Avoid taking a cab as they are expensive. If you inform the owner in advance, he will drive and pick you up from the bus station.

From the time you arrive, you will notice that there is something extremely refreshing about this hostel. The hostel’s airy rooms and balconies offer a lovely view of Ouro Preto city. Staying option includes private rooms and dorms. There are separate dorms for men and women and one can choose a private room if you are a mixed group. The hostel can accommodate almost 70 people and hence, if you like a quiet atmosphere, check with the owner whether it is a crowded time or not before checking in. There are many showers and toilets in the ground floor of the hostel, extremely clean and well maintained. The showers give hot water all day. The facilities are sufficient to cater to a large group.

The breakfast is fresh and homemade by the caretakers at the hostel. Cakes, bread, the famous Minas Gerais cheese and fruits make up the sumptuous breakfast. Definitely try the inhouse coffee, brewed by Fernanda, the caretaker.

The common room has a TV with a DVD player and a well stocked fridge. There are 2 computers where you can use the internet for 3 Reals per hour. If you are carrying your laptop, Wi-Fi is free at this hostel. The owner Washington, who is fluent in English, Spanish and Portuguese is extremely resourceful when it comes to tips about Ouro Preto as well as other cities in the Minas Gerais region.

You will feel so much at home in O Sorrisso do Lagarto that you may decide to laze around in the hostel all day. But, do not miss the tourist attractions and some of the best restaurants serving authentic Minas cuisine as they are a stones throw away from the hostel.

O DE CASA – SAO PAULO

O De Casa Hostel is an old student house converted into a hostel by a group of young students. The hostel feels like a college dorm, with young people hanging out in the common room, kitchen and backyard all the time. The place is actually two houses, connected by a common backyard. There are handmade signs all around the hostel, making it extremely personalised and homely.

O De Casa is located in Pinheiros neighbourhood, which is 15 minutes from Avenida Pualista and 30 minutes from the Centro by bus. It takes 1 hour to get to this hostel from the Rodoviaria (Bus Station) and 1.5 hours from the International Airport. One needs to take a metro to Clinicas metro, which is a 15 minute walk from the hostel. There are no signs outside the hostel and hence, double check the address when you land up.

There are private rooms and 6 bed dorms at O De Casa. Basic stuff but clean. The breakfast is nice with fruits, coffee / tea, bread and cheese. The shower is shared and you may have to battle for hot water.

Mariana, Melissa and Ana take turns handling the reception. They were ex students who decided to run a hostel… They are nice people to talk to and get a perspective about Sao Paulo.

The only issue with this hostel is that the reception is open from 8 am to 10 pm. If you show up earlier or later, you are pretty much locked out.

AYRES PORTENOS – BUENOS AIRES

If you would like your hostel to be a thematic representation of the city you are visiting, Ayres Portenos Hostel is the best choice for Buenos Aires. The decor vibrates with the colours of Buenos Aires, making you experience the city right from the minute you check in.

Located in the lively neighbourhood of San Telmo, Ayres Portenos hostel is walking distance from the historical centre of Buenos Aires. Within 20 minutes, one can reach Casa Rosada, Av. De Mayo, 9 de Julio Avenue, Av. Florida and Puerto Madero. There are bus stops nearby that can take you to other interesting areas of Buenos Aires like Palermo, Recoleta and La Boca. Thanks to the Sunday street market and Tango on the streets of San Telmo, the location is most convenient for backpackers who really want a taste of Buenos Aires.

The hostel has 3 floors and is equipped with huge dorms as well as private rooms. You can identify the dorm by the thematic painting on the doors. Each dorm / private room has security lockers inside or outside, where you can store your valuables. Every floor has a set of clean bathrooms and showers, separate for men and women. There are housekeepers who clean the rooms and bathrooms on a daily basis and hence, hygiene is never an issue here.
The hostel is blessed with plenty of common rooms in every floor. Starting with the large breakfast room, which turns into a bar at night on the first floor, the hostel has a lively atmosphere in the common rooms. The other floors have common rooms with bean bags and comfortable couches and they are also equipped with books and a television set.

There is free internet in the first floor. There are only 2 computers, however, travelers in this hostel are very considerate and share the computers with other travelers. There is also a phone facility to make local and international calls at cheap rates. The entire hostel is a Wi-fi zone, incase you are carrying your own laptop on the trip.

Other facilities in this hostel include laundry and kitchen facility. One can also book tours for Tango shows and Football matches through the reception. The staff at the hostel are extremely helpful when it comes to giving tourist information. Free maps and brochures are readily available at the hostel. The 24 hour reception is a real boon, considering the late nights that one may have in Buenos Aires.

Ayres Portenos hostel is a lovely place for comfort and facilities. However, if you are looking at making friends and bonding with a few people, this may not be the place. The size and sheer crowd makes it slightly more impersonal, though it is a perfect hostel if you are looking for just a place to crash with all the facilities that a backpacker normally misses.

PIRWA BACKPACKER – CUSCO PERU

Pirwa Backpacker Familiar is one of the 4 Pirwa Family hostels in Cusco. Colourful and quaint, with friendly staff, this hostel is a perfect choice for backpackers in Peru.

Located in San Blas, the arty neighbourhood of Cusco, it is just a 5 minute cab ride from the Main Square. With taxi rides costing just 3 Soles for any distance within Cusco, the location is perfect. Tucked away in a street, which has many cafes and stores, Pirwa Backpacker is a well known hostel in the neighbourhood.

There are dorms as well as private rooms in Pirwa Backpacker Familiar. The private rooms have attached bathrooms and are cozy and romantic. The common bathrooms are in very clean condition, as the hostel has caretakers who clean the place on a regular basis. Blankets, sheets and clean towels are provided by the hostel.

The hostel is equipped with a cozy common room, which has a TV, DVD player, a computer and a mini library. With sun umbrellas and tables and chairs outside, the open space in the hostel is a lovely area to lounge around. Breakfast is served in the kitchen, which can also be used to cook by travelers. The internet is free when you use the computer in the common room. There is Wi-Fi on request, however the connection may be very slow.

The staff at Pirwa Backpacker are very helpful in booking tours around Cusco, Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. They also provide all the tourist information you require in Cusco with maps and brochures. One does not have to plan for any detail if you are staying in Pirwa Backpacker, as they take care of every tour for you. They also have a luggage storage facility if you are going to Machu Picchu for a 2 day trip.

Clean and cozy atmposphere, friendly staff coupled with excellent location makes Pirwa a wonderful backpacker choice. One can always get cheaper options in Cusco, but the few extra dollars you spend here will be well worth it.

INKAS REST – PUNO PERU

Inka’s Rest is the perfect destination for backpackers who are visiting Puno, the gateway town to Lake Titicaca in Peru. Managed by Gilda and Alfredo, a lovely couple, the hostel is a luxurious place to stay in this small town.

Located just 5 minutes walking distance from the main plaza and the tourist streets, Inka’s Rest is very centrally located. A 5 minute taxi ride can get you to the bus terminal as well as the boat terminal. When you reach Puno by bus, the taxi drivers may try to tell you that Inka’s Rest is not a good option for staying and direct you to other hotels. However, do not listen to them. Mention that your reservation is already made and you have t
o go to Inka’s Rest.

Inka’s Rest has options of 4 Bed Dorms, Single private rooms and Double private rooms. The rooms are beautifully lit with paintings on the walls, making it extremely homely.

Every set of rooms has a common room, equipped with comfortable couches, a television, DVD player and free coffee / tea all day. Every traveler is given a set of keys to the private room, the common room and the main door, making the pace extremely high on security.

The common bathrooms / showers are found in every floor and give hot water all day. They are in extremely clean condition thanks to the regular housekeeping by the management of Inka’s Rest.

Breakfast is served in the huge common room in the ground floor from 6 AM onwards. Bread, fruits, lovely Peruvian coffee or Coca tea help you jumpstart your day. The common room is also equipped with one computer, where internet is free. There is Wi-fi for those who are carrying their own laptop and Wi-fi is available from 6 AM to 10 PM. The kitchen is free to use in the second floor, incase you want to cook.

Other facilities include book exchange, laundry facility and tourist information facility. One can book the tours for Lake Titcaca from the reception of Inka’s Rest. Gilda and Alfredo help you select the best option according to your needs. They also help you book bus tickets to other destinations in Peru or Bolivia.

One big advantage of this hostel is the owners, who speak fluent English and have contacts ranging from the Immigration office to the Tourist health clinic. You do not have to worry if you are stuck with Altitude sickness cause the owners will take care of you in a warm manner.

Though Inka’s Rest is every backpackers choice in Puno and it always has many travelers, the homely atmosphere created by Gilda and Alfredo make this hostel a warm and friendly place to make a pit stop. Even with many backpackers, the place has a personal touch and hence, you will land up making many friends in this hostel.

AREQUIPA BACKPACKER HOSTEL – AREQUIPA PERU

Arequipay Backpackers Hostel, run by this lovely lady Evelyn is an old Colonial home converted into a hostel. A bright red house with an open courtyard provides for a homely atmosphere.

Just 10 minutes walking distance from the Main Plaza, Arequipay Backpackers Hostel is located in a very cozy and safe neighbourhood of Arequipa. Reaching the airport or bus station is possible by taxi from the hostel for a cost of 3 – 5 Peruvian Soles.

The hostel provides an option of private rooms or dorms. The private room are located in the first floor. With very basic furnishing of beds and side tables, the rooms are comfortable for backpackers. Do not expect luxury. The dorms are also very basic. There are common bathrooms in the ground floor and first floor of the hostel and they are in a very hygenic condition.

This hostel is blessed with lovely common spaces starting from the reception which also doubles up as a gaming parlour with a Foosball table and some board games. You can always sink into a comfortable couch with a book from the library. The other common room has a TV and a DVD player. There are 2 computers with free internet in the common room as well. If you are looking for some sunshine and a beauttiful view, head to the terrace and lie around in the hammock or the deck chairs. Sunbathing with the view of the El Misti volcano is always an option here.

Backpackers can also use the kitchen and the common dining room. Very basic breakfast is served in the same room, normally with a selection of bread, juice and coffee.

Tourist information is available in plenty with printouts of things to do in Arequipa and around. The owner has taken a lot of effort to put up information about every destination nearby. Tours can also be arranged to Colca Canyon and El Misti Volcano from this hostel.

When you need a break from your backpacker lifestyle and you are looking for a homely place to stay for a while, this is your best choice. Arequipay Backpacker Hostel is a good choice for a quaint accommodation in a quaint city.

CAMPING MIHINOA – EASTER ISLAND, CHILE

Camping Mihinoa is the only official camping in Easter Island. With a view of the sea during the day and the stars during the night, the camp adds to the magical and mystical feeling of the island.

10 minutes by walk from the main street in Hanga Roa, the camp is located right next to the sea. Hanga Roa is the main town area of Easter Island, where one can find restaurants, cafes, supermarkets, pubs, tour guides and souvenir stores. A 10 minute drive can also get you to the airport. The camp is also located extremely close to the mini harbour area, where you can choose to go Scuba diving.

From the camp, to reach the archeological sites of Rapa Nui, one can rent a bike, scooter or a jeep. For the slightly more adventurous, there are options to rent quard bikes or dirt bikes. Armed with a map of the island and your transportation, you can get from the camp to anyplace in the island with ease.

Camping Mihinoa provides different types of accommodation – Tent only for those with sleeping bags, Tent with sleeping bag and mattress, Private rooms and Dorm rooms. The bathrooms however are in a common area, separate for men and women. They are in a hygenic condition and have hot water in the morning and evening for a couple of hours.

With a common kitchen and dining area, the camp is a place where most backpackers prefer to cook. With Easter Island not being a very affordable island for backpackers to eat out all the time, most backpackers choose to walk to the nearby supermarket and stock up groceries. The camp provides you with plates, cups and bowls and other utensils for cooking. There is also a common fridge and shelves, where you can store your groceries.

To laze around, the camp has a comfortable hammock. You can also lie around in the grass in the cool breeze.

The camp does not provide any breakfast or food. The camp also charges extra for charging batteries, using Wi-Fi and renting transportation. They however offer a free airport pickup and drop facility.

Marta and Roger, the owners of Camping Mihinoa are happy locals, who will give you enough information to enjoy your days in the island. Welcoming you with garlands in the airport and bidding Farewell with a Rapanui hug, Camping Mihinoa is the closest you will experience to home in Easter Island.

I’ve never washed so many dishes in my life

What can I say.. travel is not all rosy… something unique that comes with traveling is ‘doing the dishes’.. whether you are staying in a hostel or staying with people, ‘doing the dishes’ is a part and parcel of long term budget traveling… At a hostel, it is expected. When you stay with people, and cannot cook to save your life, washing the dishes is a good way to make up for not cooking. Saw this little sign in a hostel and loved it….

Reminded me of how spoilt I am back home….. hope to make some changes on this front when I get back….

PS: This post is dedicated to Ashaji, who I have to thank for taking care of our home like hers…

The Master Checklist….

All the planning in the world cannot prepare you for what South America has to offer. I hope to build the mother of all checklists through this post…. everything and anything one needs to look into before boarding that plane to South America… The list is in no particular order or hierarchy. If you ever plan to visit South Am, I would suggest you arm yourself with a printout of this post about 3 months before your flight to ensure you have everything ready.

As of today, this is a checklist which has not been tested practically… if I have a different experience from my actual plan, I will update this accordingly… this post gets updated regularly…
1. AIR TICKETS – Getting cheap connections to South America from India is a feat. Unless you plan to walk overland from India to London and then take a flight, I doubt anything to South America can come cheaper than 75000 Rs. Research on Air tickets is of utmost importance. Look up my post Art of Air Tickets for the same. I bought mine from Riya Travels. They give the best deals in Mumbai. (022-66594949)
2. TRAVEL AGENT – He better be your friend. You will be calling him about 5 times a day with varied options and expecting him to whip up itinerary emails for you at the speed of light. For that, he better be a good friend. My agents Vasu and Aarti from Riya Travels Mumbai are fantastic.
3. GUIDEBOOK- Lonely Planet South America on a Shoestring has been a great option. Ive read it cover to cover and its been amazing. For additional research, you can always look up the internet after an induction with the LP. If you have a friend still working in an organisation, you can bookmark pages and ask them to give you back to back printouts in font size 8 which you can use as throw away guidebooks.
4. TRAVEL FORUMS – Register yourself on Travel communities / forums – The ones I recommend are Lonely Planet Thorn Tree Forum, Trip Advisor and Couchsurfing. While Trip advisor and Thorn tree can be used purely for advice (ranging from ‘which hotel do i stay’ to ‘whats the cheapest way to get from your bus station to your hotel’ to ‘can i eat exotic fruits in the amazon’), Couchsurfing is great to make friends, stay with locals and get local advice. Its the mother of all sites.
5. VISAS – Keep about 90 days in your hand before you travel for all the Visas. Brazil has a consulate in Mumbai, but Argentina, Chile, Peru and other countries have their embassies in New Delhi. Some countries like Bolivia are not even present here. You need to really map out your travel plan keeping in mind the Visa procedures. There is a shitload of paperwork to be done and the more detailed it is, the better your chances of getting a Visa. Look up my post ‘Show me the Visa’. My agents Nematullah and Premlata, from Riya Delhi, are fabulous.
6. US Visa – Yeah, it helps.. not to get other visas.. however, cheapest air connections may be through the US. And US does not allow people to transit if you do not have a Visa. Getting a US visa is not that difficult.. the process is amazing. Look up VFS USA

7. MAPS – Buy a large map of South America. Else, print out mini maps of every country and mark out border crossing towns, places you want to visit, road / rail routes, etc. This makes overland travel easy.
8. BUS TRAVEL – Bus travel.. its the best way to get around. Long long journeys but the only cheap option. Internal flight costs can kill you. Hence, look up the bus booking site for every South American country and try and get advice on distance and costs from travel forums. Online booking can be tricky as sites are in Portuguese / Spanish. Write on travel forums for advice and book your tickets when you get there. For bus travel in the United States (short distance), you can check a Chinatown bus option else you can check Greyhound.

9. MUST SEE THINGS- Always decide what are the places you definitely want to see before you set out – For eg: Machu Picchu in Peru, Uyuni in Bolivia, Christ Redeemer in Rio, Pereto Moreno Glacier in Argentina, etc. This will help you plan your trip around the places you want to visit. I will be putting up my list soon.
10. BACKPACK – Buy a great backpack, which wont give up on you, when you are traveling. Wildcraft makers of amazing travel equipment in India are sponsoring mine. Its fabulous. Go check it out. One also needs to have a daypack in addition to a backpack when you are traveling for 7 months. The daypack can carry gadgets plus a change of clothes / jacket incase you are headed on a day trip somewhere. One foldable bag (which can open into a side bag) is a great if you are hitting the beach, etc. This can be neatly folded and kept inside your main backpack.
11. SHOES – Shoes that can last for 6 months. Comfortable and practical. I use my light Adidas slip on sneakers for the same. And one pair of flip flops / beach slippers is a must. Crocs make super comfortable light sandals and they have given me a lovely blue pair to travel with me. Check it out.
12. YELLOW FEVER VACCINATION – Get a yellow fever vaccination done. Its a nightmare to get this in Bombay. A post of mine will be dedicated to this – ‘Yellow Yellow Useless Fellow’. Minimum 15 hours in the queue and a bribe to top that is your only hope. I should complain to the Anti corruption Bureau..
13. BLOG – Set up a blog. A travel website. Whatever you feel like. Something that can capture your adventures and keep people back at home informed about what you are doing. If you have a little extra money, register a URL and redirect to your site. You can use Go Daddy or Register.com . I used Redif.com (Indian site) to do this. I used it thinking that Desi tech companies will have good customer service. Its been the worst nightmare. Once I registered my domain, they mention that I need an email with them to redirect URL to blog. They are number one cons. I have been going back and forth between Rediff customer service and blogger help group, but in vain. My URL is as of now not working. And I am yet to figure out stuff like DNS and CNAMES. Befriend a techie. That’s the only hope. Check out my website www.backpackingninja.com to read the post on online nightmares I went through.
14. MONEY MONEY MONEY – Figure out the money situation. Ive figured out that taking a Forex card to South America may not be a good idea as Forex cards only load USD, Pounds, Aus Dollars or Euros. It would then mean double conversion – INR to USD and USD to South American currency. Its better to have 2 International debit cards from 2 bank accounts in India – one preferably giving you a Visa debit card and another with a Mastercard debit card. All banks (MNC) charge you 2.5 to 3 USD for every withdrawl. So, keep that in mind while budgeting. And ask your bank to authorise international withdrawls before you leave so that you have no trouble withdrawing.
15. CREDIT CARDS – Credit cards only for emergencies. Take one emergency credit card, which you can use online and for other major buys. If you have someone back home who can pay your credit card every month, it would be good. Else, ensure you can pay online from your bank account. This allows complete control of finances.
16. TRAVELERS CHEQUES – A good friend adviced me that travelers cheques are not in use anymore.. they are good if you need to show financial position to get a visa. Otherwise, its cumbersome.
17. FLASHPACKING – Traveling with GADGETS – If you plan to be a flashpacker, one who wants to carry all your gadgets during your travel, prepare in advance. Make a list of things you want to do – Write, Upload Photos, Videos, B
logging, Emails, etc. Check out the resources with you currently. For eg: I have a company laptop, which I have to give back (since Ive quit), a Nokia phone (display messed), an IPod in good condition and a fantastic Canon Camera. So, the basics I am looking at carrying are cheap phone which can SMS and make calls plus charger, Ipod which can double as a external hard disk with a Laptop charger, Canon camera with a Battery charger and USB connector and a mini travel laptop. I have shortlisted and purchased the ASUS EEE PC – a 7 inch mini laptop which serves the purpose. It is just about a kilo, extremely compact, windows XP enabled, with a builtin microphone and webcam, wi-fi, bluetooth. What more can you ask for.
18. GIFTS- Pick up small gifts for people you meet, people who host you or generally travel friends you make. For women, small earings, bindis, bangles, silk scarves, spices make wonderful gifts. Its a little more difficult to shop for guys. But, gendar neutral stuff like bookmarks, keychains, coasters, wall hangings, music works. Incense sticks are great. One of the best gifts you can give someone is a bunch of mp3s from India. Take assorted Indian music in a pendrive and share it with people.

19. FREE WI-FI – Check out my post Wi-Fi Wonders for details on how to access free wi-fi when you are traveling.

… more soon..