Archive for Spain

Wild affair with Travel God

I’ve never been religious. I’ve personally hated going to crowded temples and waiting in long queue’s to pray to God, when the first thing I was taught when I was a child was “God is one and everywhere”. But, I still went to temples to please my grandparents. And then, as I grew up, I saw random bullshit happening around the world over “which God is better” et all. It drove me nuts. I stopped going to temples when I moved out of home. The only time I visited a temple since then, was for my wedding, that too since the venue itself was a temple.

And its been more than a decade, temple free. But, I realised I’ve been making up by visiting all these sacred places around the world in the name of traveling and forgotten they are houses of prayer. Did I go there for God? God no. I’m trying to remember why I went – Architecture maybe. Unesco World Heritage site I guess. History for sure. Wonder of the World, who knows? Either way, I never prayed when I went anywhere. But, looks like there is one God hanging around across all these places and that is the Travel God. He loves me, chases me and makes sure I find him in the next destination or he finds me in the next destination. I’m having this wild affair with him and no one seems to mind. It is for him that I climbed those ridiculously steep steps in the Guatemalan temples or walked through claustrophobic passages in Egyptian temples. It is for him that I kept silent in the serene cathedrals across Europe or danced with no inhibition on the streets of Salvador. And, the beauty of it is that we keep discovering each other all the time.

So, here are the memorable moments from across the world in sacred places, where I found the one God to love. He made me fall in love with him and he taught me a lesson or two.

At Christ the Redeemer in Rio De Janeiro, Brazil – Where Travel God tested my patience with the crowds and the unbearable sun (not being favourable to my photography).

At the Cathedral in Cusco, Peru, just outside which my wallet got stolen. This was the first test of travel – Can a solo woman backpacker manage without money in a strange land. He was just putting me in a situation to see how tough I can be.

At the Bonfim Church in Salvador Brazil, on the day of Bonfim festival, the first house of prayer I went to after having beer and dancing. A strange new concept to me. But, he seemed to derive joy from the mad parade and I just went along.


At Westminster Abbey in London, where he showed me two sides of a coin. The place were union and separation exists under one roof. The place where so many people marry. The place where so many lay buried. I had goosebumps thinking about Grand Royal weddings. I felt more moved when I saw the graves of those Great poets, authors, scientists, nobles… The poets corner and so on.

At a beautiful Hindu temple in Bali, devoid of the loud chattering Pujaris that you often see in India or the crowds or the Aarti’s or the flowers or the fire. He showed me that religion is incidental. It doesn’t have to follow norms. The same Hindu temple in Bali was more Buddhist than anything else. Buddhism. Hinduism. Doesn’t matter. It was silent and beautiful.

At the Duomo in Florence, Italy where I found the Artist in him. The artistic cathedral itself. The artists outside the cathedral wanting to make portraits of you. The artist within.

At the Alhambra in Granada, Spain where he showed me that God is in the detail. The less said, the better.

At Chichen Itza in Mexico where I discovered that God doesn’t mind an evil side. All those skulls. All those demons. All those you see oh so often across the world. If we did not know what evil was, how are we supposed to identify what’s good.

At Abu Simbel in Egypt, where he taught me that nothing comes easy. Getting up at 2 30 am and taking a convoy to reach there to see the majestic idols at sunrise. What’s tougher. This whole temple was moved from one place to another and built piece by piece. Nothing comes easy, my dear.

At the monastery in Ladakh in India, where he showed me that God is as much in energy and restlessness as much as he is in calmness and patience. Check out the young monk and old monk and you’ll know what I’m talking about.

That’s the only spiritual discourse I have for the traveler’s soul. Tell you more when I meet him next.

Certified Europhile – Top 5 Quaint European Getaways

Every since I can remember, I’ve been a Europhile. When I saw Sound of Music more than a hundred times, I gazed at the landscapes and wondered where in the world things would be so beautiful and charming. When I heard the Beatles and Pink Floyd for the first time, I dreamt about the first studios they would have recorded their music. When we used to fight as kids for a plate of French fries (unhealthy as it gets according to my mother), I wondered whether all French mums would do the same. To cut a long story short, I always wanted to visit Europe. And like any other middle class kid from India, it was a far fetch. I kept myself happy by visiting every nook and corner of India with anyone who would leave Chennai. Whether it was a religious trip to Haridwar, Rishikesh, Badrinath with my grandparents or an adventure trip with my best friend’s family to Sikkim, I escaped hot Chennai by cajoling my parents. But, I never stopped dreaming about Europe.

It was a little after I passed out of school, 2nd year of college, to be precise, that a miracle happened. Firstly, I had turned 18. Secondly, I had topped my school when I was 16. It took my parents two years to surprise me with a trip to Europe. Not very long ago had Dilwale Duljaniya Le Jayenge released in the movie halls and every girl dreamt of meeting Raj in Eurail. My only dream was to step foot in any European country and experience being away on my own. Ooops, did I speak too soon. Alone was out of question when I was 18. So, my parents decided to send my 15 year old sister with me. Not only would that push me to be responsible, there was no way I could have entered a bar with her. So, a 6 week trip was planned to Germany, France and England, three places where I had some family or friends so that I would never be on my own. That was my dad’s comfort zone. In anycase, from the day I landed in Frankfurt airport in the summer of 1999 till date, I get goosebumps when Im in Europe. It could be the cold. But, Ill leave it to travelers thrill.

Its been 11 years since I started traveling and I’ve somehow managed to tuck away money every once in a while to visit a new country in Europe. So, here are my top 5 quaint European getaways, places and experiences that have made me fall in love with travel even more.

Cinque Terre, Italy – When you hear about Italy, you hear about Pizzas and Gondolas. Most people head to Florence, Rome and Venice and get an art overdose. As sheer luck may have it, we landed up traveling through this untouched region called Cinque Terre. A Unesco World Heritage site that has a beautiful sea face, a winding walking path for nature lovers, quaint villages with murals in the stations and colourful catamarans, it is an Italian hideout that I hope the tourists never find. From the  first village Monterosso till the fifth village Riomaggiore, our mouths hung open awe struck for a few days. Cinque Terre means Five lands and in my books, I’ll remember it as Cinque Gioielli – Five jewels.

Bruges, Belgium – So, who says Venice is the only place with little canals. Bruges, this little town an hour away from Brussels is probably the place which inspired the word ‘quaint’. With vine covered houses, little cobble stone streets winding away alongside canals, small stores vending cheesy waffles and Belgian chocolate in all forms, Bruges is just the kind of town you want to laze around when traveling overwhelms you. Don’t miss the musicians with instruments you can’t put a name to charm you with their little hats. As medieval as it gets, witness time slowing down and a calmness taking over you as you literally float through the alleyways. Travel like a crazy obsessed traveler, but find Bruges for a pitstop.

Ceske Budejovice, Czech Republic - When you think of beer, you probably think of Oktoberfest. Well, in this little town called Ceske Budejovice in south of Czech Republic, a true beer connoisseur will love the vibes. You ever wondered where Budweiser came from? For a town that has been known for its beer since the 13th century, Ceske Budejovice is the home of Budweiser, or Budvar as they like to call it. Wearing the crown for being the largest city in the Bohemian region, it hosts some of the finest brewerys (Pivovar something or the other) and is a must for everyone in search of the holy grail – oops, beer trail.

Toledo, Spain – Every adventurer would have heard of Don Quixote. The Don Quixote route begins in this city Toledo, the capital of the Castilla – La Mancha region of spain. This small town just an hour or so away from Madrid is the surprise package that Spain has in store for you when the capital city of Madrid leaves you confused and disappointed. Whether it is the Iberian kingdom or the Muslim kingdom, Toledo’s architecture stuns you and its the perfect blend of old and new. More than the winding streets and the history, I remember the tiny stores selling tiled souvenirs, the windows with little flower pots popping out of nowhere and most certainly the delicious roast suckling pig that was available in practically every little restaurant. Visit Toledo if you are hungry for some culture or just plain hungry.


Costa Nova, Portugal - Visiting friends in the small town of Aveiro in Portugal, we were treated to an afternoon at Costa Nova, one of the best stretch of beaches I’ve seen in Europe. What stood out was the little town of Barra with striped houses in various colours, bright and completely out of the box. A lazy summer vacation spot for the Portuguese, the entire stretch offers you all the variety you want from a beach town – the golden dunes to boat rides to watersports. And like every place in the world has something famous to eat, this region does too. The local egg-based sweet speciality is called ‘ovos-moles de Aveiro’. Pop one before you bid goodbye to Portugal.

With these 5 little European secrets, I hope I have passed on some of my European addiction to all you readers.

Visit Europe, and you’ll be a certified Europhile in a few minutes, I guarantee.

Photographic Journey through Portugal

Not so touristy Portugal… the laundry hanging off the buildings in Lisboa.. or the trams winding their way down the sloped roads… exquisite blue tilework.. flags still left behind post the football world cup… canvas waiting to be painted… leaves on cobble stoned Sintra streets… giant cross at the western most point of Europe, Cabo de Roca… a cute pink car next to the beach in Cascais… a railway station that can be mistaken for a museum in Aveiro… small little bridges…. striped houses of Costa Nova.. boats sparring each other in Porto… the wall paintings outside the port wine cellars..











Spain – A photographic journey

Flavour Spain with a visit to the Gaudi monuments in Barcelona, cobble stoned moorish towns of Toledo and Segovia, majestic museums and bull fighting rings in Madrid, flamenco performances in Sevilla, the Alhambra in Granada. Savouring Tapas in South of Spain and sunbathing in the lovely beaches near Malaga is a must for the leisure lover. A glass of Sangria in one hand and the Lonely Planet to Spain in the other… you should be more than comfortable.
























Cats

It was September 2006 and we were doing our annual trip.. It happened to be Spain and we decided to couchsurf all over Spain instead of staying in hostels…. This was our first experience of surfing … We have hosted many people in India but never really surfed anywhere… The travellers happened to be myself, my husband Roy and his friend Suprotim…. 3 Indians geared with a backpack and a great sense of adventure…
I had been writing to many people for couches in Spain since April 2006 itself.. This particular surfing experience was in Granada, Andalucia spain…. Our host Yann wrote to us a few weeks before we were meant to be there telling us that he would be traveling, however, it would be perfect to stay at his place as his room mate would receive us…. We were a little skeptical about accepting his hospitality when he wasnt around but decided to go for it as it was too last minute to do anything else…
We reach Granada at the wee hours of the morning.. something like 4 am…. and take a bus to his neighbourhood…. There were 6 bus stops called Sacromonte and Yann had told us to get off at Sacromonte… Ooops… Did I miss something… Winding lanes going up and down with absolutely similar houses with no door numbers and absolutely no street names anywhere… Eerie silence… Is 4 am too early to call someone…. Hmmmmm
We dumped our bags by Bus stop no 4 and waited there for daylight.. My adventurous husband decided to walk through those winding lanes in search for his house… and claims to have seen a lady with a long white dress disappearing into a street corner.. If that was his idea of a 4 am ghost story, it definitely wasnt funny… 5 am and we couldnt wait… it was cold, we were tired… We called our hosts room mate and she was an absolute darling who came down to the bus stop and escorted us back to her place… The story doesnt end there… It actually begins here…
We reach Yanns place and are blown away by how pretty it is… In Granada, they convert caves into houses and leave the natural part of the cave still in built… One small problem… We walk up to the first floor where we are supposed to crash… and who do we see standing in the middle of the room to welcome us….
A CAT….
Did I miss reading that in his profile…
It wasnt just any cat.. It was a really eerie looking cat.. grey in colour.. green eyes… looking straight into my eyes…. If I failed to mention this, I am terrified of wierd looking cats…
I creep to the corner of the room and leave my backpack and the cat follows me…. slowly stealthily…
I go into the shower and the cat waits for me by the door..
I get into bed and the cat jumps on the bed…
I was psyched…. I was terrified…
6 am and I was ready to hit the Alhambra even if I was the only mad traveler to be in the streets of Granada that early in the morning… My husband and his friend thought I was really silly.. but I did not care.. I was the one planning the trip and I called the shots.. they had to tag along with me and leave the place early… But, what was scarier was that night was approaching and the cat was out there… Plans were made about how we would tackle the cat… and we went back home after a long day… Guess what… something that we did not notice in the morning… we noticed at night… Sacromonte is almost like a gypsy neighbourhood with cats in every street corner…
Not normal cats.. black cats, grey cats, green eyes, shining eyes.. just wierd cats…. If I could put a sound attachment here, i can even purr wierdly like the granada cats… Anyway.. we reach home and Mr. First floor cat was promptly waiting to jump on me…. I just couldnt take it anymore..
I was ready to sleep in the bathtub .. hiding in the bath room…
I was even ready to sleep in the balcony (and i remembered all the other cats waiting outside for me)
I was ready to lock the cat out in the balcony … (but was afraid that it would freeze and die and i would be the first CS pet killer)
Well.. after all that debate.. we managed a solution…. and i survived the night… I slept in the ground floor next to the DOG…. The cat was afraid of the dog and I was afraid of the cat…. Finally, a beautiful way to end the wierd cat granada story….
Before I sign out… the reason why CS is so interesting is it gives you an opportunity to face your fears and come out of it… Even if it is a silly fear like the fear of cats) CS also gives you an opportunity to experience a city in a real way… it wouldnt have been the same if i stayed in a comfortable room in a granada hotel.. granada wouldnt have been so special…
There is a part 2 to this story… which has been written by my husband.. trying to understand why the cat was so obsessed with me and did not want to go next to the 2 guys… The hypothesis is that the cat was actually the host, who was under a spell and was trying to communicate with me…. A twist in the tale…. I sure hope Yann is not reading this.. and if you are Yann, its a joke : )
Well, before I start on one more long story and bore you guys…. signing out Meooooow !!!