Archive for Guatemala

Around the world in many Cups

People are clearly coffee people or tea people. Just like you find Dog people or Cat people. Just last week, a good friend of mine made a remark about how I had changed in 2 years. Apparently, when he met me 2 years ago, I would drink nothing but black coffee. Agree. About a year ago, I was overworked and I would drink nothing but Red Bull. Partly agree. Recently, he mentioned that my preference has changed to tea. Disagree. All this hype about Coffee, Tea and Red Bull, I decided to think about my life, my travels and really figure out who I am. So, here are plenty of coffee moments, some tea moments and many life lessons.

Nothing inspires me to write more than coffee – Coffee has been the savior. When I blog. When I write in my travel diary. More than anything, when I had to write innumerable mails at work. When I had to especially frame politically correct emails. When I had to apply for a job. When I had to write my resignation. You get the drift. (Infact, right now, that’s what I’m drinking)

Starbucks should not even be your last resort – If you are anywhere near North America, they sell you brown liquid in the name of Starbucks Coffee. I detest Starbucks. I avoid it all costs. Whoever came up with Tall, Grande and whatever? I know Americans like everything ‘supersize’ but it is ridiculous making anyone drink that amount of bad coffee. (I know my sister is probably going to kill me for this, but to save humanity from bad coffee, I had to write this). If they worry so much about the coffee farmers and so on and so forth (as it reads in their promotional material in store), they would stop spending so much money on real estate and give it back to society.

The best coffee can be brewed with socks – Honest to God. In Brazil, they have this coffee maker called a Cuador, which is nothing but a sock like cloth attached to a metal ring and handle. You put the coffee powder in this and Voila, you have a hot cup of awesome coffee. This makes a fabulous travel companion. All you need to do is buy the local coffee from a supermarket and boil water and you can make your own coffee, about 10 times cheaper than drinking coffee outside. If you do not get a cuador, fresh clean ankle socks works.

Meet the people behind the scenes and hear the coffee stories – Whether it is in the Guatemalan coffee farms or the Bali coffee estates, you’ll find coffee farmers to be warm and loving and ready to make the 100th cup of the day just to share with you. I remember sitting and chatting with this lady who was roasting the ‘Luwak’ beans in Bali and telling me the history of coffee. Known as Kopi Luwak, it is among the most expensive coffee in the world. The process of making this coffee will disgust you – they make the little Asian Palm Civet’s eat the berries and excrete the same. Then, the beans having gone through the intestines and out, are separated, cleaned and roasted and so on and so forth, till the most amazing coffee is made.

Sometimes, the only thing that can get you through bad coffee is good company – I love black coffee. Hanging around a bus station in Brazil with a friend, I was deeply disappointed to find only coffee chains with milky coffee and not the usual Cafezinho (small black coffee). Remember cribbing a lot. Then, the adaptable calm friend of mine picked up the coffee and literally thrust it on my face. One coffee slap was good to get me slurping out of the cup. And surprisingly, I enjoyed it as she cracked jokes about bus stations, travel, losing weight and all that. So, it is true. Bad Coffee + Good Company = Great memories.

The one thing on top of my sightseeing list in every city is the oldest café – Whether it is Café Sperl in Vienna or Café Tortoni in Buenos Aires, it was top priority for me to visit these cafes. All the museums and palaces of the world came next. Old world charm, black and white photographs, the history adds to the nostalgia.  Imagine sitting in the room where the King of Spain sipped coffee. I’ve landed up spending a bomb across such cafes but you never think money when you think coffee. These are far stronger memories than seeing a hundred paintings in a museum and not remembering one.

When in trouble, find an Illy - For those who take their black coffee seriously, visiting a new country and not finding the perfect blend can be worrisome. I’ve had terrible terrible coffee in Malaysia, North India and Egypt. A wise woman I met in Mexico told me that the easiest way to find good coffee in a country is to find the Italian Embassy or Italian Cultural Centre and hope they have a cafeteria. Illy rocks. (Now, I can’t help but remember the day my Italian neighbour in Chennai taught me how to make an Italian espresso – Read more here)

Never make the mistake of ordering coffee in Tea land – Was in Egypt last year and craving for coffee one day. Made the terrible mistake of ordering a coffee in the old markets of Cairo. With tons of Elachi and a terrible fragrance, one sip made me cry out Allah. I had the impression it would be close to Turkish coffee or Arabic coffee, dark and strong. Had no idea it came with spices. Prompty, I switched to Tea. It is not about the drink at all. It is about lounging around in a Sheesha place with a glass of tea for hours.

When you in the wilderness, coffee or tea, have it hot – After a long day bushwhacking or trekking or hiking or whatever you do in the wild, the only thing I yearn for is a hot cup of whatever. (This is obviously second to a cold beer, but I generally don’t carry a mini fridge when I go hiking). So, for a change, its not about coffee or not about tea but about hot water. As the kettle gently sways over the camp fire, you have this warm feeling within you that doesn’t go away. (Tried and tested in many places around the world – Special moment was in Swansea in Wales and Smoky Mountains in the USA).

While coffee goes with backpacking, tea goes with luxury – Unless you are backpacking in the Middle East or roughing it out in a guesthouse in Varanasi, I would suggest the best companion to backpacking is coffee. Anyway, coming back to tea, why tea and luxury? Recently, I was invited to a Champagne Afternoon Tea at the Dorchester hotel in London. No, I’m not kidding. With scones and jam, champagne and perfect little sandwiches, they served a whole bunch of us tea in fine china. I was so worried I was going to knock down something or break something. It was like being in the Titanic, with all the cutlery. Rated as one of the best Tea experiences in all of Britain, this was something way out of my league. (Ok.. someone else was paying.. Haha) Anyway, I’m not bad at role playing. I promptly held the cup like most of them do, with the little pinkie finger sticking out, pursed my lips and slurped away. And, I felt like the perfect lady when the waiter actually asked me, ‘Would you like some more teaaaaa?’. And, that is the London experience I worry about.

Saving the best for last, nothing beats South Indian Filter coffee – Yes, I’m that South Indian girl who grew up drinking filter coffee from a tumbler. So, now you know why the obsession to find coffee everywhere I go. This was just a few moments before my wedding (early in the morning), drinking a strong cup of filter coffee, freshly brewed at home. (My aunt was hyperventilating that I would spill the coffee on my Sari, but I managed). I absolutely needed to clear my head before taking that big step towards marriage. Like I said, nothing beats South Indian Filter coffee.

So, brought up in coffee land (South India) and obsessed with coffee land (Brazil), moving to tea land (Britain) is a bit of a worry. Especially after I read this quote. “Coffee in England always tastes like a chemistry experiment.” – Agatha Christie

And, such is life. No fear. What lays ahead is a path of discovery. I cannot wait to begin my coffee crawl of London and add to these stories here.

Postbox hugger

You’ve heard of tree huggers.

You’ve heard of free huggers.

But, have you heard of a postbox hugger? That’s me.

A self proclaimed deltiologist, I’ve been fascinated by postcards since god knows when. When I was a kid, my uncle used to send snail mail regularly to my grandparents and I used to rip off the stamps even before they laid hands on the important letter. Snail mail started fascinating me. Then, a couple of my friends from school traveled outside India and I pleaded them to send me letters or postcards. The day I received my first postcard from Germany (Thanks to a dear friend who moved there) and soon after, a post card from the USA (my best friend traveled there), I was addicted. The email age came and I was still writing letters and postcards to people. For those who still did not get it, deltiology is the official name for postcard collecting and is thought to be one of the three greatest hobbies apart from stamp and coin collecting.

So, these are reasons why I am / am not a deltiologist, in no particular order -

1. The first thing I do apart from finding a tourist information office in any city is finding the post office.

2. I’ve spent more time selecting postcards for friends than eating breakfast, lunch, dinner in every trip. My husband will certify this.

3. I can spot a mail van / post box from a mile but I cannot spot a Mc Donalds.

4. I went into a 2 week depression when 1 set of postcards of mine from Argentina did not reach my best friends.

5. I live in this imaginary romantic world where I think that you can explain your life’s purpose on postcards. (If you were to explain this in corporate language, why make a power point presentation, that too a lengthy one when you can make your point in one page)

6. There is nothing more exciting to me than receiving a postcard. For every 100 or so that I send, I receive one. So, obviously it is exciting.

7. Postcards are great bribes when you want to ask your boss for leave.

8. You can break up or make up on a post card. Its the closest to being face to face. Forget the mobile phone, chat, blackberry, etc of the world.

9. The one thing I treasure most in my life is the 40 odd postcards I have received from my Grandfather when I was in college. Old yellow postcards. Written with all the love and care in the world. I just hope I had replied to every one of them. I know I did not. He probably got one letter from me for every 10 he sent. I’m making up by sending cards to the whole world now.

10. Postcards make me cry. More than onions and lovers quarrel.

11. They say a deltiologist can track history with postcards. Well, I know one thing for sure. If I were to read the postcards I sent to myself (I started doing that since others dont), it would make a historical diary

So, I’ll leave you with my favourite images of postcards, postboxes and all things beautiful. The thing I spend more time in when I am traveling. Even more than sightseeing.

This was taken in Windsor, England and this is one of the oldest postboxes of England. It has a vertical opening instead of a horizontal one and this is how postboxes used to be till they discovered water used to go in during rainy season. Then, they changed it to a horizontal opening with a cap :) This is one of the postboxes I hugged.

The lady in the post office in Antigua, Guatemala assuring me that these cards would reach in 3 to 4 weeks. I did not let go till then. Remember that moment vividly.

Stuck in the middle of the jungle trekking for 4 days in Chapada Diamantina, Brazil. There were no postcards. So, I wrote postcard length notes and later, pasted them onto cards and mailed them. The strong black coffee (Brazilian coffee) – Oooooh, I would kill for that.

God bless people who built post offices. Check out the brass work in the post office in Mexico city. ‘Estampillas’ sound as enticing as ‘Enchiladas’.

Hope I have given you enough reason to send a postcard instead of an email. If you are inspired, send one to the Ninja. Shoot me a comment and I’ll send you my address.

Stamped with love. This is Ninja signing out.

Guatever I fondly remember

It’s about 2 weeks since we returned from the lovely holiday in Guatemala and Mexico and I am pleased that the number of reminders I have received from my friends to update my blog has been more than SMS New Year wishes. That is some record. So, here I am trying to remember guatever I can. Actually, with Guatemala, I have to admit that is not very difficult.

From the terribly cold streets of New York, we landed in Guatemala City on the 22nd of November and the weather was hardly the point of discussion. Just the fact that we could remove our thermals made everything seem like sunshine to me.  Immigration has never been easier, considering this was the first country we were stepping into, which did not require Indian’s to carry a visa. Infact, when we tried to talk to the immigration officer about this, he assumed we were Diplomats. (Come on… I’m wearing my dirty red sweatshirt and Roy is carrying a backpack that looks like it has been beaten to death and still they think we are Diplomats in Guatemala. I love it already).

Whizzing through immigration, we landed up in the backseat of our first Collectivo ride. Collectivos are white mini vans (kind of the size of those  Tata ambulance vans) that ply you from city to city, intra city et all. You will find them all over Guatemala and Mexico. We heard that Guatemala city has nothing much to offer the traveler, unless you want to see armed guard outside any building. We drove straight to Antigua.

Antigua is a travelers delight. Take some of the oldest looking colonial ruins, put them together amidst 3 volcanoes and clear blue skies, the European charm of Cobble stone streets, the indigenous touch with the people who sell colourful woven garments, hot local food served straight from earthenware in quaint restaurants and the strongest damn coffee you will get, that is Antigua for you.

Walking around the little town and riding the Chicken buses in and around Antigua, within the first 2 days of my holiday, I felt as though I had experienced what most travelers would get to see in a few weeks.  Currently faced with this extremely difficult task of cherry picking my favourite pictures of Antigua, I’m reliving those 3 days. I hope this photographic journey below takes you on a virtual trip.

(Tip: The first thing to do is to pick up an Antigua city map from any hotel reception or travel agent. It’s a simple grid structure and you criss cross till you have covered everything).

Unesco World Heritage Antigua with the natural setting of Volcano Agua in the background.

The oldest Cathedral in Antigua. The construction of this cathedral began in 1545 and it was demolished around 1668. They rebuilt it around 1680 and it was demolished again by an earthquake in 1773. Walk through the ruins and you really feel transported back in time.

Looking at the blue skies through the arches is mesmerising.

Apart from ruins, you have beautiful churches like the one below – Iglesia la merced.

Just across this church is Antigua’s very own Dhobi Ghat. This little public pond is where a lot of people do the laundry.

The Arch of Santa Catalina is one of the most famous and certainly one of the most photographed colonial monuments in Antigua. This used to be the entrance to the Santa Catalina monastery which was destroyed in the Earthquake as well.

If you are not visiting the ruins or walking through historic arches, what every little street offers you is colourful picture perfect houses or quaint flower pots. A photographer’s delight.

All the walking makes you hungry – stop by a place that serves you Comidas Tipicas – local food. We went to this place called La Cuevitas de la Urquizu, recommended by the receptionist at the hotel we were staying at. You get to pick 1 main gravy and 2 salads and they give you rice and tortillas to go with it. Let me not forget the pickles. We ordered a chicken and a pork dish just for the variety and left the restaurant 2 hours later, a few pounds heavier.

Do not miss a visit to the bus station in Antigua just to check out the queue of colourful buses. Old American school buses painted and polished, you do not want to miss a ride. Just buy a ticket to the nearest Pueblo and hop on.  We bought tickets to Ciudad Del Viejo. The seats on the side can only take 2 people each but 3 people squeeze in with their butts literally sticking out in the aisle area. You have to squeeze in and find a spot amidst all the healthy Guatemalans :) There is free entertainment depending on the driver you get. One way, we had a driver who was into Reggaeton and the other guy was into sad love songs. Either way, this is an experience to remember.

Do not forget to visit the Artisan’s market, not too far from the bus station. You may find the main Artisan market a little touristy. But, there are many other less popular markets in and around the city. Try on a Huipil – that’s a traditional Guatemalan dress. Just take in the colours. If you want to buy something, I would recommend the beautiful cloth belt called as Faja’s and the Cafe de Guatemala gunny bag.

Not being far away from the coffee belt of Guatemala, I would recommend a visit to one of the coffee farms nearby. Azotea is a lovely coffee farm, that houses a couple of museums on coffee production, ancient Guatemalan instruments and textiles. A 3 hour trip (free pickup and drop from the Parque Central) is well worth it. I was delighted to see that I have been to 6 out of the top 17 coffee producing destinations in the world. (That makes is very easy to plan the next coupe of trips).

And.. it is my dream to own every type of coffee device. Currently, I have a poor collection – Italian espresso maker, French press, American coffee maker (the worst), Brazilian cuador and a South Indian filter.  It’s time to invest.

And, if you fancy just a strong cup of Guatemalan coffee in town, I would recommend this little coffee shop (Y Tu Pina tambien) which serves what is called “Hard on coffee”. The good karma tip box on the counter was one of the cutest things I have seen, a pleasant break from the tip crazy time at New York.

And.. finally, for some interesting night life, I would only recommend heading to the local Pena – Pena del sol latina. Buy yourself a Gallo beer and a plate of Nachos with Guacamole. If you are lucky, you’ll catch the local Guatemalan band. If not, you’ll witness some Cuban musicians. Either way, there is nothing better than sinking into a Latin America with good music and good beer.

On this good food note, I hope to leave you with a taste of Guatemala. The main course is yet to come. Keep checking here for more.