Archive for Bolivia

A year ago….

I remember November 23rd very very clearly in my head. It was the day I was stranded in the little town of San Pedro Atacama in Northern Chile without any money, fairly hungry, sun burnt, tired and wondering. Id bid farewell to the Colombian friends in the Bolivian border a day ago. Id said goodbye to Roy about 10 days ago in the Peruvian border. And for the first time in a long long time, I was truly alone and broke.

Id lost my wallet in Peru, my own stupidity. Roy had left his credit card with me. But, my stupidity did not end with just losing the wallet. When I crossed over from Bolivia to Chile, reluctantly, I forgot to exchange Bolivian currency for Chilean. I thought I was safe with a credit card and a 10 dollar note I had. Well well well.. the ATMs did not work. The 10 dollar bought me a night at the youth hostel and nothing more. Credit card forgery (signing as Roy to buy a bus tikcet), some startvation and lot of yearning to see things I couldn’t afford is how I landed up passing the day.

I was quite miserable that day. I remember. I wanted to eat and hang out with people. I wanted to ride a quad bike into the dunes. I think I even wanted to go to the Valley of the moon to see the sunset. Something like that… But, I had no money. For the first time in a long time, I really knew what it felt like to be totally broke. Walking around aimlessly with truly empty pockets seemed like an experience every backpacker would go through sometime or the other. You turn them upside down and you’d see sand trickle out… But, its also pretty distrubing. That day, I did not see any positives. I was just cranky, hungry and tired. I cried a lot. I just wanted to board the bus to a city where I would meet friends and eat good food. In the entire 7 month trip, if there was one day I moped a lot, it was Nov 23rd.

Why do I remember this today? I wandered into office at around 9 30 am and its a monday. For the first few minutes, I make my coffee and just stare at my laptop watching the white screen turn partially red with the highlighted unread mails. As this turns into a blur, my mind wanders and lands up with collages of landscapes from my trip a year ago. Yes… this morning, I looked at the date on the mailbox and sipped coffee. And it was a dusty blur. The images were all a dusty blur like the sand storm in San Pedro De Atacama. And I was alone in the office, with the whrrrrrring sound of the air con keeping me company.

Shit.. what a long way….. Im not broke. Im not alone. But, Im in a cold cubilcle wishing I was alone and broke in a dust strom.

I would have spent the day very differently, smiling and carelessly strolling around had I known I was going to be sitting in a freezing office a year from now.

The people who made everything worth it……

Was just thinking about how many interesting people Ive met in this trip so far…..

I guess Ive always had this doubt in my mind whether travel is about meeting people or seeing places.. I guess its a bit of both…. I remember people more than places and I remember places because of the people I met there…

So…. a big thanks to all these people for making my journey worth it….

Italian gay artist in a China town bus in New York

A music lover and wonderful human being (who incidentally is my sisters educational Godfather) in Madison

3 Tam Bram Engineering Boys living the typical American Grad student life in Madison

Sociologist Mom in Sao Paulo

The 17 year old on a metro who was carrying a cake for his girlfriends birthday in Sao Paulo

Amelie Poulain look alike and kickass samba dancer in Sao Paulo

Drama queen cum Capoeirista who loves to wear roman sandals in Sao Paulo

Brazilian capoeirist couple who ideally should have been a bollywood dancing couple in Sao Paulo

Brazilian born middle eastern obsessed Foodie in Sao Paulo

The only Brazilian guy who doesnt like the sun and coffee in Rio De Janeiro

His girlfriend who is as Brazilian as it gets in Rio De Janeiro too

A Chilean artist who has made one of the most romantic and moving art staircase Ive ever seen in my life in Rio De Janeiro

A Slovakian Anthropoligist living in Bahia in Rio De Janeiro

A social worker from Portugal, working with children in Rio De Janeiro

A professor from Petropolis who is learning English in his 50s in Rio De Janeiro

An Australian from England, overstaying her visa in Brazil to learn Capoeira in Rio De Janeiro

2 Brothers named Washington and Wellington in Ouro Preto

An arrogant American who asked unbelievably idiotic questions about India in Ouro Preto

A Polish guy who was locked outside the hostel in Sao Paulo

His English friend who kept ringing the bell in the wrong house in Sao Paulo

The Canadian couple who were fussing about 5 dollar meals but spent 100 dollars on REM in
Buenos Aires.. whatever rocks their boat…

The 3 loud girls who wore lycra and went out only at 10 pm and returned at 6 am in Buenos Aires

The pinstriped shirt banker gathering in a Halloween meetup in Buenos Aires

The Peruvian Women Shahrukh Khan Fan Club in the hostel in Cusco

The Swedish (overenthuasiastic engineer sent to Peru to work on some technology project) who escaped work for a weekend trip in Machu Picchu

The Colombian couple Lina and Mauro who I cannot describe in one sentence…. They are my family and I love them to death… Met them in Peru and landed up traveling in Bolivia with them.. Check out what I have to say about them in my post Un-Boliviable

French couple in the hostel in Puno, who were doing the exact reverse of my trip from East to West giving me invaluable advice about Bolivia and Chile

Brazilian 40 year old who looked nothing over 30 in the boat in Lake Titicaca .. Landed up going and staying with her Salvador after a few months

The Mexican sisters in the boat in Lake Titicaca who were dying to go sand boarding

The Australian exchange students in the bus ride from Lake Titicaca to Lapaz, with whom I spent an afternoon drinking beer and bitching about cricket

Bolivian biologist who hosted me in Lapaz and who is now tripping around India.. I truly managed to convince her to visit my country

Another wonderful Bolivian girl with a Swiss boyfriend (who worked in an organisation with priests.. so he really coudlnt admit he had a girlfriend)

The large Bolivian family who made me feel so welcome I was afraid I would leave Bolivia with Montana as my surname

Menta, the most beautiful blind dog Ive met in my life.. I wish she couuld see how beautiful she was

A Colombian 21 year old gastronomical student who is moving to Australia to become a chef… who danced with me under the stars and taught me how to love Spanish music.. I traveled with
him in Bolivia and fell in love with his spirit… I cant wait for the day I get to travel with him again

A German geologist, without whom I would have never understood the real natural beauty of the Bolivian salt plains…

A French couple…. the guy talking all the time and the girl sitting quietly…. Kinda reminded me of Roy and me (opposite though)

An Israeli gang who sang Bob Marley all the time… something about the whole wild outlook of
the group made me fall in love with Israel… I just have to go there

The perfect boyfriend anyone can ask for… the colombian boyfriend of my Indian friend in Santiago, Chile… he is adorable

Peruvian single mother to a baby who looks like a J&J baby in Santiago… a fantastic strong woman

Monicas mother – Energetic mother, shopper, tour guide cum Ambassador of Santiago

Capoerist professor (friend of neeshas from the US) who I think looks really hot

Spunky theatre artist cum dancer addicted to Yoga and wearing Indian clothes all the time in Santiago

Colombian Chica Loca (Crazy in Cordoba Argentina… there is an entire blog post dedicated to her..

James Dean look alike Argentinian guy who just returned from Canada in Cordoba

Greek god who dances like he was born to dance in Buenos Aires

A cartoonist cum beedi smoker who loves to bicycle in Buenos Aires

An Armenian Australian chiropractor in Buenos Aires

A Colombian guitarist who was spending time learning music in Buenos Aires

A Brazilian student in Argentina, missing home

An American round the world traveler with whom I shared 3 wonderful days in Iguazu

A ping pong expert and business woman from Singapore (she is in her 30s and already a MD of a company) in Iguazu

A lost little boy from Singapore who wanted to travel all around South America in 25 days in Iguazu

A Californian couple who run a fitness club with more positive energy than anyone else Ive met

A Brazilian family (who have adopted me as their daughter) in Curitiba

An American firefighter (wonderful dancer but he will deny it, patient listener considering how much of my non stop banter he has put up with and someone who I am addicted to in many ways now) and his friend (who Ill always remember as the guy who lost his camera on New years in Rio and tried to report it to the cops….)

A talented Brazilian musician who needs a third hand (to hold the beer as he strums the guitar) in Vitoria and then in Belo Horizonte

His father, who makes the best breakfast in Brazil

His fathers friend, who I can fall in love with had he been about 20 years younger

An American woman who lives in Salvador Bahia setting up an NGO for the homeless, who incidentally spent many of years of her life as a professional dancer, grew up in Hollywood (knows Brad Pitt), has 20 year old sons (when you see her, you wont believe it) and a heart of gold

An American guy who moved to Salvador 18 years ago and celebrated the 18th birthday of his move with my Indian dinner

An American girl who decided to visit Salvador for 3 months and is paying for everything with her credit card, hoping to get a job to pay back those bills when she heads back

A British girl, whose aunt paid for her rount the world trip, discovering herself

A Spanish guy, who can make you laugh even when everything around you makes you want to scream and cry

An American guy who does some virtual techy job (computer software stuff) who lives in a different country every year… Im freaking jealous

A Brazilian guy who was obsessed about doing handstands and kissing t
he British girl in Chapada Diamantina

A Brazilian lady who moved to live in Hawaii and named her son after Narayan, the Indian God as she is obsessed with Hare Rama Hare Krishna stuff in Chapada Diamantina

A Brazilian guy from Belo Horizonte who volunteers with children in a Favela teaching them Capoeira and Afro dance

A 5 year old Brazilian girl who taught me how to dance to Shakira on a 24 hour bus journey from Salvador to Belo Horizonte

A house full of girls who throow weekly international theme parties and monthly costume parties in Belo Horizonte

A girl wearing a pink dress and putting up balloons at a music show in Belo Horizonte

A whole bunch of musicians who make the world seem like a more beautiful place in Belo Horizonte…….

….. and I still have 3 more months to go…..

Lost in Translation.. Lost in Pronunciation too..

If you think that the challenge is learning a foreign language, think again. That’s actually the easy part. Try flying to a continent, where supposedly you need to know only 2 languages – Spanish and Portuguese. Who are you kidding? The way in which Spanish is spoken in Argentina is way different from Colombia and different from Chile and so on.. and the Spanish in South America and the Spanish in Spain is different too… the way in which Portuguese is spoken in every part of Brazil seems to be different…. and I don’t think the Portuguese from Portugal understand any of the Portuguese from Brazil…

Its crazy… Rio De Janeiro is pronounced as Hio de janeiro in Brazil and Rio de Haneiro in other parts of South America. Pollo (chicken) is pronounced as Poyyo in some countries, Pojo in some and Posho in some….

I really should not complain coming from India. Imagine the poor tourist in India. After every couple of hours of traveling, the language changes.. the script too…

Coming back to South America, its more than three and a half months since I landed in South America. I’ve been making a conscious effort to learn the language…. If God paid me for effort, I would be able to sponsor my next trip.

Anyway, why am I writing this post now…. after so long… Just 2 weeks back, I spoke for 7 minutes on the phone with a Police officer in Rio De Janeiro Airport about renewing my visa. Totally in Portuguese. Phew! I am serious. If you do not believe me, check with my friend Aarti. She witnessed the whole conversation. And today, I did something even more outrageous… I called a friend in the United States and left an angry voice mail in Portuguese. All in Portuguese. So, I think Im finally getting the hang of how Portuguese works… Well, I’ve used a couple of techniques for learning the language. Just thought it might be interesting….

Rule No 1 – Do not get psyched by people who are ‘natural born language learners’. Por exemple, my travel partner Neesha was learning to say words like extraordinary, probable, destiny, etc when I was still stuck with Good morning and Thank you. She is incredible with languages. Right now, she is headed further North and I am sure she already knows the dialect there.

Rule No 2 – Watch movies and tv. In South America, they have all the international channels and subtitles in Portuguese and Spanish. As you listen to English, read the subtitles. That’s a very fast way of picking up words. In about 1/2 hour, you can learn close to 30 words atleast. Ofcourse, if you are watching some real trash, then you will learn swear words earlier than anything.

Rule No 3 – Buy a dictionary before heading out. Phrasebooks and Teach yourself books won’t get you anywhere. With a dictionary and South America in front of you, you can translate anything – billboards, menu cards, flyers, etc. That way, you will start learning. Fast trackers can buy books in that language and start reading. For me, I am just still reading billboards.

Rule No 4 – Listen to people. Then, talk to people. Irrespective of how horrible you sound, just try to talk. It doesn’t pay to be shy. Hang out with people who don’t speak English… you’ll be forced to learn. And then, when you feel like its too much, hang out with people who dont speak the language you are trying to learn. Whatever you have learnt will be more than what they know and they will probably land up complimenting you and that will only make you feel more charged to learn the language. Psychological feel good tips to learning.

Rule No 5 – Start with simple things and important things. For me, my objective was to learn everything that I needed to learn to save myself in a coffeeshop. On day 1, it took me a frustrating 7 minutes to order coffee and I got really upset. That charged me to pick up coffee stuff. Today, I can walk into a shop and say ‘Cafe sem leche por favor…’ with confidence. Can also ask for ‘coffee to go’, ‘with or without sugar’, ‘how much it costs’, ‘double shot with water on the side’, etc. Its been a real challenge, but if you meet me in a coffee shop, you’ll think I am Brazilian.

Rule No 6 – Decide what your style is. Do you want to be the ‘Wren and Martin’ type or the ‘Sign language type’ or the ‘Word by word type’. To explain further, the ‘Wren and Martin types’ learn everything in a grammatically perfect manner. The sign language varieties use some words and the rest are just gestures and expressions. The word by word type is like join the dots… For eg: Eu, Centro, Bus, Onde means I, Centro, Bus, Where… which actually means I need to go to Centro…. Where can I get a bus… It works.. People understand.. People are glad you are atleast making an effort…

Rule No 7 – Listen to music… Music is one of the best ways to pick up the language… try and choose your favourite songs and look up the translation on the internet… its an interesting way to learn… this also helps you learn some romantic words… (since most of the songs anyway have some romance in them.. its Latin America)

Rule No 8 – Write letters in that language. I spent about 2 hours and wrote one paragraph. Then, I decided it would be good to begin with postcards.

Rule No 9 – Learn some nuances… for example, in Brazil, everything is pronounced with this sounds ‘chee’… Internet is internechee…. Citibank is Cicheebankee…. Hip Hop is Hippee Hopeee… Samba Rock is Samba Hockee… and the Portuguese equivalent of ly in english is mente… Actually is actualmente…. normalmente.. generalmente… facilemente… so, when you are stumped, you can use mente and you will be fine.

Rule No 10 – No more rules….. Just, learn to say ‘I love you’ in the language. If you don’t know anything, you can survive with romance. That’s my latest theory about life.

Un-Boliviable

There are some places you can visit for a month and still seem fairly lost. There are some places you can visit for just 7 days and feel like you belong there more than anything else. Bolivia was one such experience. When I started planning this trip, I had no intentions of visiting Bolivia (Thanks to the fact that Bolivia does not have an embassy in India). Call it stroke of luck or fate or whatever, I managed to get the Bolivian visa by applying in Buenos Aires.

After the guys left Peru for India, I decided to spend a week in Bolivia before crossing into Chile. I knew I wanted to visit Lapaz, the city nestled among mountains and recently in the news thanks to the Bond movie Quantum of Solace. (Its a separate story that the movie was actually shot in Chile and they called it Bolivia… Bolivians are very pissed about the fact that they show James Bond looking scared trying to check into a Bolivian hotel.. they also find it amusing that the cops in Bolivia were shows to be wearing sleeveless, when the weather actually warrants Alpaca wool or Fleece). Getting back to my plan, apart from Lapaz, I wanted to visit Salar De Uyuni, the salt flats of Bolivia, which are home to many a crazy pictures of world travelers. Having seen those photographs, I imagined doing some stunts in the salt plains myself.

So… this is how the week went. After Roy left Arequipa, I took one of those famous Peru buses from Arequipa to Puno, which is the town next to Lake Titicaca. I spent one night at Inka’s Rest hostel chatting with a French couple, who had just arrived there from Bolivia. On Saturday, I headed from Puno to Lapaz by bus. The bus company Tour Peru was the first decent Peruvian bus journey. Filled with backpackers, the bus had a lively atmosphere and for the first time in a long time, did not smell of Coca leaves (a local trademark). I hung out with 3 Australian girls, who were students and visiting South america as a part of a student tour.

Reaching Lapaz, I headed straight to Flavias house. Flavia was a wonderful couchsurfer, who hosted me for 2 days. On day 1, we walked around the historic city centre of Lapaz, comprising of Govt buildings and cathedrals. We also visited the Market of Black Magic (withcraft stuff that Bolivians still purchased) and street food stalls. Towards the night, we headed to one of the oldest streets in Lapaz, which was home to all the museums. The street was believed to be haunted and homes in that street hang a cross outside to ward of spirits. Lapaz, known for its night life, comes alive only after 11 pm. We hit a local bar, called Pena, which had Bolivian live music and dance. The Pena owner was a complete showman, who sung to please the tourists. He did a pretty good job of singing Peruvian music, Italian music, French music and American too. When it came to India, however, he was lost. Instead he just motivated his group of dancers to pull me up on stage to dance. As the Bolivian dancer did his bit, I did a Balle Balle to go with it. Without one sip of beer, just the music and dance was enough to get me high. Flavias friend Pamela (a local too) and Manuel (a Swiss guy volunteering in Bolivia) accompanied us to the Pena. A night getting to know Lapaz with the locals was a perfect start to the solo trip. I was missing Roy incredibly and Flavia and her friends made things so much easier by just being themseleves.

Ofcourse, there were many things that I could have done in lapaz on Sunday, my day 2.. like visiting the Death road north of lapaz or the Mercado Alto in El Alto, a huge flea market. Instead of doing all that, I just chose to hang out and get to know Flavias huge family. I cooked an Indian meal for a family of 12. Unbelievable by my standards. The menu comprised of Chole Alu Masala, Jeera Rice, Cabbage curry south indian style, Mixed vegetabbles with gravy, Chicken fry with Garam masala and Raita. Am not kidding. It took me 5 hours, but was totally worth it. Seeing Flavias family enjoy the meal was a wonderful feeling, something I honestly have not experienced before. After the meal, it was fun to gift Flavias grandpa an Indian Beedi. I shared photos from India, including the ones from my wedding, to share with them what the Indian culture was all about. Flavia did not need any more convincing to visit India. My sunday at her place was just an extra incentive. Next year, she will be traveling to India for 6 months and I hope to return the hospitality.

I left Flavias place on Monday morning after hugging everyone goodbye.. her mom, who was wonderful and kept offering me milk shakes and coffee, her brother (who resembled Ando from Heroes) and her cute white dog…

I was a little sad leaving a friend.. but not for too long. I was planning to travel from Lapaz to Uyuni with 2 colombians, who I had met in Peru. Lina and Mauro, a lovely couple who had done the Cusco city tour with us had pretty much the same plan ….. taking a bus from Lapaz to Uyuni and doing a 3 day tour of the salt flats. I was only more than happy to travel with people and learn something new. I reached their hostel to find out that Lina and Mauro had another companion, Diego…. So, it was 3 Colombians and me… heading from Lapaz to Uyuni… That was just the beginning…. The 4 days with them was the best 4 days of my trip….

Before I begin explaining what we did those 4 days, I need to tell you a bit more about these 3 Colombians.

Lina.. a student of cinema… having studied in france, worked in Italy and grown up in Colombia spoke many languages… had enthuasiasm that cannot be described… a true traveler at heart… a nomad… passionate, crazy, loving human being… and more than anything completely BEAuuuuuutiful. Her favourite colour was red and she was curious about everything under the sun (actually everything in the universe).

Mauro.. a communications student.. very much in love with Lina.. amazing at music…. could dance bloody well.. a colombian Austin Powers… a guy who loved to say ‘Behave Baby’…. one who added a mean streak and a dash of humour to the group… and one who taught me how to swear in Spanish…

Diego… a student of gastronomy who was headed to Australia to work as a chef… a guy who clicked pictures of everything he ate… one who liked to dress in green pants, white sweaters and a red blanket looking
Christmassy…. one who played me romantic Spanish songs from his Ipod… the guy who was addicted to Skittles (thats like M&Ms without the chocolate)….

We met on a Monday morning in Lapaz. After hanging out together eating a delicious heavy breakfast of Saltenas (a Bolivian sweet meat filled samosa), we decided to find out about buses to Uyuni. The cheapest bus was 80 Bolivianos, which was something I would have taken, had I not been traveling with real shoestring travelers. I learnt how to beat the cost with them. A direct trip costs 80 Bolivianos. However, a trip to Oruro and then from Oruro to Uyuni cost only 10 and 40 Bolivianos, making it 50 Bolivianos…. Lina had done this reasearch in the bus station. So, we reached the bus station after spending the day visiting Western Union and Money Gram to collect money, hunting for a flute for Mauro and a Polar jacket for me…. Buying cheap 10 boliviano tickets to Oruro for the 4 pm bus, we had 40 minutes in our hand. Lina and Mauro had to send a courier to Colombia. So, they headed to the post office. Diego wanted to try Pacena beer, the only beer he had not tasted in Lapaz. So, I went hunting for Pacena with him…. After a few unsuccessful attempts, we landed up at a really rundown restaurant, ordering another beer called Inga beer, which was not Pacena, but something Diego had not tried. It tasted like sweet corn turned bad. But, he was thirsty and he did not mind.

Reaching the bus stop 10 minutes before the bus, we waited for Lina and Mauro, only to see the clock turn 4 and the bus starting to move with our bags inside. Lina and Mauro were nowhere in sight. I ran after the bus and pleaded in English, as Diego hung from the door and pleaded in Spanish. We managed to convince the driver to throw out our bags. The driver sweared at Diego and gave us our bags. As we stood in the bus station with 4 backpacks and our friends nowhere in sight, we suddenly saw 2 people frantically running towards us. Lina and Mauro, who were late, thanks to a traffic jam (Alanis Ironic in action). We took the 4 backpacks and ran to the exit of the bus station, only to stop the bus before it headed out the maingate. The driver took the chance to swear at Diego, once again. We settled into our seats, panting for breath. Withing 10 minutes, we were asleep, only to be woken up in 20 minutes by a loud movie, which made absolutely no sense. It was some B grade Spanish violence mixed with humour, which none of us found remotely entertaining. However, what was entertaining was to look at the rest of the bus (filled with locals), keenly watching the movie like it was an Oscar winner.

We reached Oruro at 8 pm, only to find out that there was a bus strike the next day. we booked tickets to Uyuni for the 9 pm bus the same day. Diego threw a tantrum that he wanted to eat at the best restaurant in Oruro, Nayjama. We left the bus station at 8 10, reached the restaurant at 8 20, ordered food at 8 25, received the food at 8 35, ate by 8 45 and reached the bus station at 8 55, just in time. If you see pictures of this one hour, you would know what a satisfied man (satisfied with food) looked like.

We sunk into our seats at 9 pm and prayed that it would not get too cold in the bus. With 4 layers of clothes and jammed windows, we somehow managed to stay warm all night. The ride was comfortable till midnight. Between midnight and 4 am, we were being jolted around. There were moments I felt that I would go crashing out the window. The good part about the bumpy ride was that we got to see the landscape at night. One minute, you are seeing a million stars, a clear view. A little later, one couldnt see anything out of the window, thanks to the dust storm. To add to the interesting landscape, Diego played Spanish songs on hid Ipod and translated them for me. I fell in love with some Colombian music that night. It was around 4 30 am that the bus reached Uyuni. The driver said that we could sleep in the bus till 7 am. However, around 6 ish, he started talking loudly and waking us up.

Getting out of the bus, 2 things shook me completely. The freezing cold. I was wearing 2 T shirts, 1 sweater, 1 jacket, 1 polar jacket, my multi coloured peuvian wool cap, black gloves and a shawl around my neck and I was still freezing. Lina was wrapped in layers like I was. Diego managed with a T shirt and a sweater. (The explanation to that… he is from Bogota, which experiences colder weather unlike Mumbai or Cali, where Lina came from) For us, anything below 15 degrees is not good news. Uyuni that morning must have been close to zero degrees. You can imagine my state.

After the shock of the cold, the next thing that shook me up was the state of my bag. It was supposed to have been stored in the compartment below the bus. However, thanks to the dust storms, the bag looked like it was tossed around in mud, dust, ash, whatever around hundred times. Taking the bag out, I spent a good 5 minutes kicking it and beating it till the dust came out. I managed to get all that dust on me and coughed my way around for sometime. Lina and Mauro’s bag was in bad shape too. I forgot to mention that Diego did not have to experience this. Guess why.. he traveled with a bag (the size of a school bag) and always hung on to it for his dear life. Dont ask me how he manages to fit his stuff into such a small bag. Its an art I am yet to learn.

Uyuni was a small town. Pretty much surviving due to the Salar de uyuni tours. Every third building is a tour agency or a hostel. We walked around enquiring with a few hostels till we found a really cheap one called Kactus Hostel for 25 Bolivianos. Thats just 175 Rs. Ofcourse, for the amount we paid, we were only allowed one hot shower. The hostel served no food and had a midnight curfew. Who cares. We needed a place to put our bags down and sleep. After being tossed around in the bus for so many hours, we slept like children in the hostel. We woke up way past lunch time and went hunting for the perfect tour agency. After enquiring with Sandra tours, Andrea tours, Good time tours and all that, we came across our tour agency. For ease of pronunciation, I will just call it X tour agency. It had a complicated name. The reason we chose the agency was because one of the reviews mentioned that the jeep had an Ipod adapter. That was a real bonus.

Lina, Mauro and Diego by that time had come up with an interesting way to call me. They called me ‘Our partner Aparna’… pronounced as ‘Apartner Aparna’…. Kinda rhymed. We hung around a street side cafe, playing Manu Chao music. Mauro started singing the song ‘Mentira’ and sang it for the rest of the d
ay. It is still playing in my head. After some beer, some food annd some wine, we decided to call it a day.

The Uyuni tour is a 3 day tour covering the Salt Flats, small villages processing salt, the Cemetry of trains, beautiful lagoons like the Laguna Colorado, Laguna Verde where you can see Flamengos and amazing Bolivian landscape. The tour is on a jeep that normally accommodated 8 people including the driver. The driver doubles up as a cook and you get amazing food for 3 days. You get to stay in cozy salt hotels or guest houses if you are lucky and in cold dorms if you are unlucky. Well.. we were lucky.

We reached the tour agency and met our co-travelers. A French couple Emilie and Samuel and a German geologist Rudiger in addition to the 3 mad Colombians and 1 crazy Indian. It was an interesting group. Having a geologist was a real bonus. The landscape, the rocks, the geysers, the volcanic stuff, the salt flats… we understood why everything was the way it was, thanks to him. The tour started at the Cemetry of trains, which was a huge yard where the old trains were dumped, once they stopped running. We took some crazy pictures with the trains and tracks.

The highlight of Day 1 was the Salt Flats, which is where we headed after the Cemetry of trains. The salt flats are 12000 Sq Km of Bolivia… briight white land… if you dont wear sunglasses, you are sure to get a headache. It looks like ice all the way. I can’t even describe how stunning it looks. You just have to see the pictures. incidentally, Salar Uyuni is the place where people love to take whacky pictures. Check out some of the photos we have taken – Me swallowing Diego, Lina jumping into Mauros mouth, Mauro walking on Linas stomach, Diego holding me in a spoon.. all sorts of stuff. Apart from the sane stuff, there was some insane stuff too. Mauro and Diego decided to run naked in the salt flats. The Mauro – Diego naked series is for private circulation only.





After an entire day of taking wild pictures, we reached our cozy salt hotel. The floor had salt and the entire place was made out of salt. Its true.. we licked the walls and they were salty. At the hotel, we met another group of travelers.. all Israelis… Yotam, Chen, Erez, Anat, Gal… I am forgeting one name. They were 3 guys and 3 girls, who met in Uyuni and decided to do the tour together.

Rudiger and Lina spent a lot of time taking pictures of the stars with Linas Nikon camera. Incidentally, Rudiger was also a fabulous photographer. Mauro played romantic music in the background as they took pictures. The French couple went to bed. I froze looking at the stars for sometime and then called it a day. Diego played poker till the wee hours of the morning with the Israelis. All in all, we were dead tired but excited for Day 2, as we were gonna see Falmengos in the lagoons.

Some more time with the Colombians and I had shared Indian music with them and pictures of my wedding. They were fascinated by Mehendi in my hands and Bollywood dancing. I told them a bit about the food from India, the caste system, the Taj Mahal… They told me more about Colombian music, Salsa, Meringue, food from their country, the beauty industry and plastic surgery industry in Cali… Colombia economy compared to other South american countries… Cultural exchange was fabulous. I taught them how to swear in Hindi and they taught me some critical swear words in Spanish. In addition to that, I learnt to speak like them. Whenever you see anything spectacular, you say ‘Oi.. marica….. Que Bonito.. Que Lindo…..’ and ‘Si.. Si.. Claro.. Claro..’ I was getting the hang of Spanish.

Day 2 was amazing… the colours of the lagoons.. the flamengos.. the volcanic mountains.. the rocky terrain.. the sky… it was picture perfect…. The night was musical with Israelis singing some Hebrew stuff, the Colombians singing Spanish stuff, me trying to sing Hindi songs and the French couple singing some French music. Then, we all sung some English music… like Beatles and popular stuff and ate Spaghetti for dinner.

I got to know the Colombians even more. They told me about their families…. about their lives… I told them about mine… They taught me how to dance… I loved it… I taught them the meaning of ‘Kaba me haddi’ and they told that ‘violinista’ was the Spanish equivalent… I told them how to say ‘I love you’ in Hindi… They were amused that I speak English with Roy.. coming from the same country, they expect us to speak the same Indian language… They asked me about Reincarnation, Karma, Dharma, Kismat, etc… Phew! Indian philosophy classes…. Then, we tried Indian beedis together… They were falling in love with India the way I was falling in love with Colombia.

Day 3 was something we were hoping wouldn’t arrive. I was leaving the group and heading to Chile. After a dip in the thermal springs and a breakfast of panckaes and coffee, our driver Santi drove like Schumacher to get me to the Chile border, from where I was taking a bus to San Pedro Atacama.

I was feeling really emotional. We took some pictures.. hugged each other… called each other silly names…. said short term goodbyes.. I am hoping to meet them in Argentina and travel to Patagonia with them… They gave me the best gift ever…. a handmade Colombian passport endorsing me as a Colombian officially. I guess there is one country in the world I won’t need a visa for. I know this post was called Un-Boliviable. However, I guess its more Colombian than Bolivian. It was like visiting 2 countries at the same time… a week I will cherish all my life.

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Now, I am in Chile, missing Bolivia, waiting to meet the Colombians in Argentina before I head to Brazil. Oi Marica… South America is amazing!

Hostel Fundas

When you are traveling, one of the most important decisions you need to make is about where you plan to stay. Most of the time, I prefer to stay with locals. Thanks to Couchsurfing, I have been able to stay with wonderful people and experience the city the way locals do. However, when you are traveling for a really long time, you feel like a little bit of luxury once in a while… some independence… shut your self away from the world ocassionally… those are the times you check into a hostel or a pousada and decide to give Couchsurfing a break. Also, when you are traveling in a large group (typically 3 or more people), finding a hostel is better than looking for a couch… most people may not be willing to host more than 2 people at a time…

So, the first month of my trip, I managed to stay with friends and family in the US and couchsurfers in Sao Paulo and Rio. The past couple of weeks, Ive been staying in hostels as Roy and Picklu have joined me… I book my hostels through www.hostelworld.com. The basics I looked for – private rooms with shared bathroom, breakfast included, free wi-fi and security. After a few stays, I realised it makes sense to include 24 hour reception, laundry facility and free linen to that list. There are always tall claims… For eg: hostels mention free internet.. however, they just have one computer and 30 people sharing it. However, free wi-fi has been great. With my small travel laptop, Ive been able to connect from just about anywhere.

You can be as choosy as you want.. but, that comes with a price.

Anyway, after a couple of stays, I decided that it would be a great opportunity to actually review the places we stay and post it here for the benefit of people who decide to backpack in South America in the future. This post will keep getting updates as and when I stay in a hostel.

So, here goes -

Vila Carioca – Rio De Janeiro, Brazil

Home away from home is the best way to describe Vila Carioca. Right from the minute you enter this hostel, the staff make you feel absolutely comfortable. The cozy rooms named after the beaches in Rio, colourful living room and sunny kitchen makes it an extremely cheerful atmosphere. With the hostel run by locals, they really give you a taste of Rio at this quaint place. The owners are Capoeristas (Capoeira is a Brazilian martial art form) and musicians and hence, one can get to experience the local culture even without stepping out.

The hostel has an option of private rooms for those who want to spend and dorm rooms for the budget traveler. Breakfast of bread, cheese, fruits and coffe is included in the package. The common room offers internet access at 3 Reals per hour. The hostel also has an entertainment area where you can choose to watch movies from the DVD collection or play some music, as they have a wide collection of musical instruments.

Located extremely close to the Botafogo metro and just 5 minutes by walk from the Botafogo beach, this hostel is perfect if you want to be in the midst of all the action. In less than 30 minutes, you can reach the beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana, tourist attractions of Sugar Loaf, Christ the Redeemer (Corcovado train station), the Botanical Garden, the Centro and Bohemian neighbourhood of Santa Teresa. There are multiple guidebooks and brochures that you can pick up at the hostel for the same.

Other positive aspects include the cleanliness of the hostel and the security. Since the hostel is located in a private road, it has a 24 hour security guard, making it completely safe. Not far away from the hostel, you can also find large shopping malls like Botafogo Praia Shopping, bank ATMs, laundry service, bars, cafes and restaurants.

Inspite of all the positives, there are two things to look out for. First and foremost, double check your reservation before arriving at the hostel. Even if you have made an internet booking, it may be advisable to call and confirm your reservation. With multiple staff at the hostel, there are times that internet reservations get missed. Secondly, the hostel is not equipped with multiple showers and hence, you may have to wait a bit for the shower in the morning. Also, the showers do not give hot water all day.

If you dont mind a cold shower, this is the place to stay in Rio. Apart from a local Rio experience, you can definitely expect to meet interesting travelers as this hostel does attract the culture vultures from different parts of the world.



O Sorisso Do Lagarto Hostel – Ouro Preto, Brazil

O Sorisso do Lagarto Hostel is a spacious hostel managed by a really friendly owner, Washington. Located just 10 minutes by walk from the main square Praca Tiradentes, the hostel is very easily accessible. If you arrive in Ouro Preto by bus, it takes just 15 minutes to reach the hostel by a local bus. Avoid taking a cab as they are expensive. If you inform the owner in advance, he will drive and pick you up from the bus station.

From the time you arrive, you will notice that there is something extremely refreshing about this hostel. The hostel’s airy rooms and balconies offer a lovely view of Ouro Preto city. Staying option includes private rooms and dorms. There are separate dorms for men and women and one can choose a private room if you are a mixed group. The hostel can accommodate almost 70 people and hence, if you like a quiet atmosphere, check with the owner whether it is a crowded time or not before checking in. There are many showers and toilets in the ground floor of the hostel, extremely clean and well maintained. The showers give hot water all day. The facilities are sufficient to cater to a large group.

The breakfast is fresh and homemade by the caretakers at the hostel. Cakes, bread, the famous Minas Gerais cheese and fruits make up the sumptuous breakfast. Definitely try the inhouse coffee, brewed by Fernanda, the caretaker.

The common room has a TV with a DVD player and a well stocked fridge. There are 2 computers where you can use the internet for 3 Reals per hour. If you are carrying your laptop, Wi-Fi is free at this hostel. The owner Washington, who is fluent in English, Spanish and Portuguese is extremely resourceful when it comes to tips about Ouro Preto as well as other cities in the Minas Gerais region.

You will feel so much at home in O Sorrisso do Lagarto that you may decide to laze around in the hostel all day. But, do not miss the tourist attractions and some of the best restaurants serving authentic Minas cuisine as they are a stones throw away from the hostel.

O DE CASA – SAO PAULO

O De Casa Hostel is an old student house converted into a hostel by a group of young students. The hostel feels like a college dorm, with young people hanging out in the common room, kitchen and backyard all the time. The place is actually two houses, connected by a common backyard. There are handmade signs all around the hostel, making it extremely personalised and homely.

O De Casa is located in Pinheiros neighbourhood, which is 15 minutes from Avenida Pualista and 30 minutes from the Centro by bus. It takes 1 hour to get to this hostel from the Rodoviaria (Bus Station) and 1.5 hours from the International Airport. One needs to take a metro to Clinicas metro, which is a 15 minute walk from the hostel. There are no signs outside the hostel and hence, double check the address when you land up.

There are private rooms and 6 bed dorms at O De Casa. Basic stuff but clean. The breakfast is nice with fruits, coffee / tea, bread and cheese. The shower is shared and you may have to battle for hot water.

Mariana, Melissa and Ana take turns handling the reception. They were ex students who decided to run a hostel… They are nice people to talk to and get a perspective about Sao Paulo.

The only issue with this hostel is that the reception is open from 8 am to 10 pm. If you show up earlier or later, you are pretty much locked out.

AYRES PORTENOS – BUENOS AIRES

If you would like your hostel to be a thematic representation of the city you are visiting, Ayres Portenos Hostel is the best choice for Buenos Aires. The decor vibrates with the colours of Buenos Aires, making you experience the city right from the minute you check in.

Located in the lively neighbourhood of San Telmo, Ayres Portenos hostel is walking distance from the historical centre of Buenos Aires. Within 20 minutes, one can reach Casa Rosada, Av. De Mayo, 9 de Julio Avenue, Av. Florida and Puerto Madero. There are bus stops nearby that can take you to other interesting areas of Buenos Aires like Palermo, Recoleta and La Boca. Thanks to the Sunday street market and Tango on the streets of San Telmo, the location is most convenient for backpackers who really want a taste of Buenos Aires.

The hostel has 3 floors and is equipped with huge dorms as well as private rooms. You can identify the dorm by the thematic painting on the doors. Each dorm / private room has security lockers inside or outside, where you can store your valuables. Every floor has a set of clean bathrooms and showers, separate for men and women. There are housekeepers who clean the rooms and bathrooms on a daily basis and hence, hygiene is never an issue here.
The hostel is blessed with plenty of common rooms in every floor. Starting with the large breakfast room, which turns into a bar at night on the first floor, the hostel has a lively atmosphere in the common rooms. The other floors have common rooms with bean bags and comfortable couches and they are also equipped with books and a television set.

There is free internet in the first floor. There are only 2 computers, however, travelers in this hostel are very considerate and share the computers with other travelers. There is also a phone facility to make local and international calls at cheap rates. The entire hostel is a Wi-fi zone, incase you are carrying your own laptop on the trip.

Other facilities in this hostel include laundry and kitchen facility. One can also book tours for Tango shows and Football matches through the reception. The staff at the hostel are extremely helpful when it comes to giving tourist information. Free maps and brochures are readily available at the hostel. The 24 hour reception is a real boon, considering the late nights that one may have in Buenos Aires.

Ayres Portenos hostel is a lovely place for comfort and facilities. However, if you are looking at making friends and bonding with a few people, this may not be the place. The size and sheer crowd makes it slightly more impersonal, though it is a perfect hostel if you are looking for just a place to crash with all the facilities that a backpacker normally misses.

PIRWA BACKPACKER – CUSCO PERU

Pirwa Backpacker Familiar is one of the 4 Pirwa Family hostels in Cusco. Colourful and quaint, with friendly staff, this hostel is a perfect choice for backpackers in Peru.

Located in San Blas, the arty neighbourhood of Cusco, it is just a 5 minute cab ride from the Main Square. With taxi rides costing just 3 Soles for any distance within Cusco, the location is perfect. Tucked away in a street, which has many cafes and stores, Pirwa Backpacker is a well known hostel in the neighbourhood.

There are dorms as well as private rooms in Pirwa Backpacker Familiar. The private rooms have attached bathrooms and are cozy and romantic. The common bathrooms are in very clean condition, as the hostel has caretakers who clean the place on a regular basis. Blankets, sheets and clean towels are provided by the hostel.

The hostel is equipped with a cozy common room, which has a TV, DVD player, a computer and a mini library. With sun umbrellas and tables and chairs outside, the open space in the hostel is a lovely area to lounge around. Breakfast is served in the kitchen, which can also be used to cook by travelers. The internet is free when you use the computer in the common room. There is Wi-Fi on request, however the connection may be very slow.

The staff at Pirwa Backpacker are very helpful in booking tours around Cusco, Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. They also provide all the tourist information you require in Cusco with maps and brochures. One does not have to plan for any detail if you are staying in Pirwa Backpacker, as they take care of every tour for you. They also have a luggage storage facility if you are going to Machu Picchu for a 2 day trip.

Clean and cozy atmposphere, friendly staff coupled with excellent location makes Pirwa a wonderful backpacker choice. One can always get cheaper options in Cusco, but the few extra dollars you spend here will be well worth it.

INKAS REST – PUNO PERU

Inka’s Rest is the perfect destination for backpackers who are visiting Puno, the gateway town to Lake Titicaca in Peru. Managed by Gilda and Alfredo, a lovely couple, the hostel is a luxurious place to stay in this small town.

Located just 5 minutes walking distance from the main plaza and the tourist streets, Inka’s Rest is very centrally located. A 5 minute taxi ride can get you to the bus terminal as well as the boat terminal. When you reach Puno by bus, the taxi drivers may try to tell you that Inka’s Rest is not a good option for staying and direct you to other hotels. However, do not listen to them. Mention that your reservation is already made and you have t
o go to Inka’s Rest.

Inka’s Rest has options of 4 Bed Dorms, Single private rooms and Double private rooms. The rooms are beautifully lit with paintings on the walls, making it extremely homely.

Every set of rooms has a common room, equipped with comfortable couches, a television, DVD player and free coffee / tea all day. Every traveler is given a set of keys to the private room, the common room and the main door, making the pace extremely high on security.

The common bathrooms / showers are found in every floor and give hot water all day. They are in extremely clean condition thanks to the regular housekeeping by the management of Inka’s Rest.

Breakfast is served in the huge common room in the ground floor from 6 AM onwards. Bread, fruits, lovely Peruvian coffee or Coca tea help you jumpstart your day. The common room is also equipped with one computer, where internet is free. There is Wi-fi for those who are carrying their own laptop and Wi-fi is available from 6 AM to 10 PM. The kitchen is free to use in the second floor, incase you want to cook.

Other facilities include book exchange, laundry facility and tourist information facility. One can book the tours for Lake Titcaca from the reception of Inka’s Rest. Gilda and Alfredo help you select the best option according to your needs. They also help you book bus tickets to other destinations in Peru or Bolivia.

One big advantage of this hostel is the owners, who speak fluent English and have contacts ranging from the Immigration office to the Tourist health clinic. You do not have to worry if you are stuck with Altitude sickness cause the owners will take care of you in a warm manner.

Though Inka’s Rest is every backpackers choice in Puno and it always has many travelers, the homely atmosphere created by Gilda and Alfredo make this hostel a warm and friendly place to make a pit stop. Even with many backpackers, the place has a personal touch and hence, you will land up making many friends in this hostel.

AREQUIPA BACKPACKER HOSTEL – AREQUIPA PERU

Arequipay Backpackers Hostel, run by this lovely lady Evelyn is an old Colonial home converted into a hostel. A bright red house with an open courtyard provides for a homely atmosphere.

Just 10 minutes walking distance from the Main Plaza, Arequipay Backpackers Hostel is located in a very cozy and safe neighbourhood of Arequipa. Reaching the airport or bus station is possible by taxi from the hostel for a cost of 3 – 5 Peruvian Soles.

The hostel provides an option of private rooms or dorms. The private room are located in the first floor. With very basic furnishing of beds and side tables, the rooms are comfortable for backpackers. Do not expect luxury. The dorms are also very basic. There are common bathrooms in the ground floor and first floor of the hostel and they are in a very hygenic condition.

This hostel is blessed with lovely common spaces starting from the reception which also doubles up as a gaming parlour with a Foosball table and some board games. You can always sink into a comfortable couch with a book from the library. The other common room has a TV and a DVD player. There are 2 computers with free internet in the common room as well. If you are looking for some sunshine and a beauttiful view, head to the terrace and lie around in the hammock or the deck chairs. Sunbathing with the view of the El Misti volcano is always an option here.

Backpackers can also use the kitchen and the common dining room. Very basic breakfast is served in the same room, normally with a selection of bread, juice and coffee.

Tourist information is available in plenty with printouts of things to do in Arequipa and around. The owner has taken a lot of effort to put up information about every destination nearby. Tours can also be arranged to Colca Canyon and El Misti Volcano from this hostel.

When you need a break from your backpacker lifestyle and you are looking for a homely place to stay for a while, this is your best choice. Arequipay Backpacker Hostel is a good choice for a quaint accommodation in a quaint city.

CAMPING MIHINOA – EASTER ISLAND, CHILE

Camping Mihinoa is the only official camping in Easter Island. With a view of the sea during the day and the stars during the night, the camp adds to the magical and mystical feeling of the island.

10 minutes by walk from the main street in Hanga Roa, the camp is located right next to the sea. Hanga Roa is the main town area of Easter Island, where one can find restaurants, cafes, supermarkets, pubs, tour guides and souvenir stores. A 10 minute drive can also get you to the airport. The camp is also located extremely close to the mini harbour area, where you can choose to go Scuba diving.

From the camp, to reach the archeological sites of Rapa Nui, one can rent a bike, scooter or a jeep. For the slightly more adventurous, there are options to rent quard bikes or dirt bikes. Armed with a map of the island and your transportation, you can get from the camp to anyplace in the island with ease.

Camping Mihinoa provides different types of accommodation – Tent only for those with sleeping bags, Tent with sleeping bag and mattress, Private rooms and Dorm rooms. The bathrooms however are in a common area, separate for men and women. They are in a hygenic condition and have hot water in the morning and evening for a couple of hours.

With a common kitchen and dining area, the camp is a place where most backpackers prefer to cook. With Easter Island not being a very affordable island for backpackers to eat out all the time, most backpackers choose to walk to the nearby supermarket and stock up groceries. The camp provides you with plates, cups and bowls and other utensils for cooking. There is also a common fridge and shelves, where you can store your groceries.

To laze around, the camp has a comfortable hammock. You can also lie around in the grass in the cool breeze.

The camp does not provide any breakfast or food. The camp also charges extra for charging batteries, using Wi-Fi and renting transportation. They however offer a free airport pickup and drop facility.

Marta and Roger, the owners of Camping Mihinoa are happy locals, who will give you enough information to enjoy your days in the island. Welcoming you with garlands in the airport and bidding Farewell with a Rapanui hug, Camping Mihinoa is the closest you will experience to home in Easter Island.